Cosmetic Compositions With Near Infra-Red (NIR) Light - Emitting Material And Methods Therefor

ABSTRACT

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions and substrates, containing a NIR light-emitting material, and methods for stimulating healing and/or regenerative properties in the skin, hair and/or scalp are provided.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

The present application claims priority from U.S. ProvisionalApplication No. 61/735,582, filed Dec. 11, 2012.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to cosmetic formulations with long-termbenefits. More specifically, the present invention is directed tocosmetic products for the body, and in particular, for the skin, scalpand/or hair, which incorporate a material which emits near-infra-red(NIR) light.

2. Description of the Prior Art

Just about everyone would like to maintain an ageless, youthfulappearance. Consumers are always looking for the next product ortreatment that will erase their wrinkles and keep them younger looking,and in particular, safer and more effective methods and products forrejuvenating the skin. Collagen and elastin are the components of skinwhich keep it young looking. Collagen molecules pack together to formlong thin fibrils, and, together with elastin, form bundles which serveto make skin layers elastic and therefore help the skin to withstandstretching. But these components decrease as people age. Moreover, sunexposure, smoking and environmental stresses alter and degrade theskin's collagen and elastin. Sun exposure, in particular, induces matrixmetalloproteinases (MMPs), a group of enzymes, to degrade anddisorganize collagen bundles, likely contributing to wrinkle formation.Various methods, including hyaluronic acid injections, topicalapplication of Vitamin C compounds or Vitamin A compounds (e.g.,retinoids), have been used to boost or prevent the loss of collagen.Other methods, including dermabrasion, chemical skin peels, electricalstimulation, Collagen Induction therapy (CIT) utilizing a micro-needlestudded roller, dermal fillers, laser treatments, and the like, are saidto improve the appearance of skin by agitating skin and triggeringhealing and/or stimulating neocollagenesis. However, aggressive methods,particularly dermabrasion and chemical peels, have been observed to bedestructive to skin and further have the potential for long-termside-effects including redness and scarring. Moreover, all of thesetreatments are costly procedures, and may only be performed by aprofessional.

It has recently been reported that photobiomodulation, also known as lowlevel laser therapy (LLLT), leads to beneficial clinical effects,including wound healing. This is a technique in which exposure tolow-energy lasers or LED (light emitting diode) arrays stimulatescellular function. It has been observed that, in cells damaged by injuryor trauma, energy producing mitochondria are turned off so that theproduction of energy in the form of ATP is reduced or ceases entirely.When these cells are exposed to infra-red or near infra-red light, bymeans of LLLT, at the right frequency, the mitochondria are re-activatedand almost immediately begin producing adenosine 5′ diphosphate (ADP)which links with free oxygen singlets to produce adenosine 5′triphosphate (ATP), the energy source for metabolic processes in cells.More specifically, it is believed that the mechanism ofphotobiomodulation at the cellular level involves the activation ofmitochondrial respiratory chain components, resulting in a signalingcascade initiated by the absorption of light by cytochrome oxidase, anintegral membrane protein that has a strong absorbency in the far-red tonear infra-red spectral range, promoting cellular proliferation andcytoprotection. The effectiveness of this therapy appears to be relatedto the color of the laser light (wavelength), the intensity, and thetotal energy delivered. The correct dose of laser irradiation is said toeffect improvements in the rate and quality of not only wound healing,but also pain relief, inflammation, immune system functioning and nerveregeneration.

It has further been observed that LLLT therapy stimulatesneocollagenesis, tightens collagen fibers, and stimulates the productionof elastin, all of which are said to be beneficial for improving theappearance of skin texture or topography, including reducing theappearance of dilated pores and wrinkles, while being minimallyinvasive. Additionally, LED devices have been used to apply NIR light tothe scalp to stimulate healing and the growth phase of hair folliclesthat have become dormant, as well as to reduce dandruff-causingseborrhoeic inflammation. It has also been reported that LLLT therapystimulates cell growth, both directly, by regulating the expression ofcertain genes, and indirectly, by regulating the expression of genesrelated to DNA synthesis and repair, and cell metabolism. Others studieshave suggested that LLLT therapy is useful in reducing the appearance ofcellulite. LLLT therapy in combination with moderate exercise has alsobeen reported to play a role in fat reduction and weight loss. Theresults of the study indicated that NIR light acts by thermal andnon-thermal mechanisms. The thermal effects include the generation of atherapeutic field of warmth with an increase in tissue temperature,tissue oxygen partial pressure, and tissue blood flow. The NIR lightboosts the normally slow metabolism and rate of lipolysis of the tissue,and the mobilized fats are burned in musculature during the exercise.

It is the Applicants' understanding that NIR light-emitting material hasnot heretofore been incorporated into a topical cosmetic product so asto provide the benefits previously achieved only with NIR light-emittingdevices such as lasers. It would be advantageous to provide methods andproducts to consumers for achieving skin and hair therapy orrejuvenation which do not require the use of devices such as lasers orLEDs or a dermatologist to apply the therapy.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic ordermatological compositions comprising a NIR light-emitting material ina cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

It is also an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic ordermatological compositions comprising a NIR light-emitting materialwhich persistently emits NIR light in a cosmetically or dermatologicallyacceptable vehicle.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide cosmetic ordermatological compositions comprising a NIR light-emitting material incombination with at least one skin, scalp, hair and/or body benefitagent in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

It is another object of the present invention to provide cosmetic ordermatological compositions for stimulating healing or regenerativeproperties in the skin, scalp and/or hair comprising a NIRlight-emitting material, in a cosmetically or dermatologicallyacceptable vehicle.

It is also an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic ordermatological compositions for stimulating healing or regenerativeproperties in the skin, scalp and/or hair comprising a NIRlight-emitting material in combination with at least one skin, scalpand/or hair benefit agent, in a cosmetically or dermatologicallyacceptable vehicle.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a substrate forstimulating healing or regenerative properties in the skin, scalp and/orhair, the substrate comprising

-   -   a solid body; and    -   a NIR light-emitting material associated with the solid body.

It is yet a further object of the present invention to provide a methodfor stimulating a healing or regenerative property in the skin, scalpand/or hair comprising:

-   -   applying to the skin, scalp and/or hair in need of such        treatment a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a        NIR light-emitting material, in a cosmetically or        dermatologically acceptable vehicle; and    -   retaining the composition in contact with the skin, scalp and/or        hair for a time sufficient to stimulate a healing or        regenerative property in the skin, scalp and/or hair, wherein        the composition is exposed to UV or fluorescent light prior to,        during, or after application of the composition to the skin,        scalp and/or hair for a time sufficient to activate the NIR        light-emitting material.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a method forstimulating healing or regenerative properties in the skin, scalp and/orhair comprising:

-   -   applying to the skin or hair in need of such treatment a        cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a NIR        light-emitting material in combination with at least one skin,        scalp and/or hair benefit agent, in a cosmetically or        dermatologically acceptable vehicle; and    -   retaining the composition in contact with the skin, scalp and/or        hair for a time sufficient to stimulate a healing or        regenerative property to the skin, scalp and/or hair, wherein        the composition is exposed to UV or fluorescent light prior to,        during, or after application of the composition to the skin,        scalp and/or hair for a time sufficient to activate the NIR        light-emitting material.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a method forimproving body composition, comprising:

-   -   applying to skin of at least one body part containing fatty        tissue and in need of such improvement, a cosmetic or        dermatological composition comprising a NIR light-emitting        material, which is capable of providing thermal effects on fatty        tissue, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable        vehicle: and    -   retaining the composition in contact with the skin of the at        least one body part, while exercising the at least one body        part, for a time sufficient to generate the thermal effects of        the NIR light on the fatty tissue to thereby increase lipolysis        in the fatty tissue and boost fat reduction in the body part;        wherein the composition is exposed to UV or fluorescent light        prior to, during or after application of the composition to the        skin of the at least one body part for a time sufficient to        activate the NIR light-emitting material.

Other aspects and objectives of the present invention will become moreapparent from the ensuing description and claims.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 a is an elevational view of a fiber or bristle incorporating NIRlight-emitting particles on its surface;

FIG. 1 b is a cross-sectional of the fiber or bristle of FIG. 1 a, takenalong line 1 b-1 b;

FIG. 2 a is an elevational view of a fiber or bristle incorporatingembedded NIR light-emitting particles throughout and NIR light-emittingparticles on a portion of the surface of the fiber;

FIG. 2 b is cross-sectional view of the fiber or bristle of FIG. 2 a,taken along line 2 b-2 b;

FIG. 3 a is a top, perspective view of a sheet incorporating NIRlight-emitting particles on its surface;

FIG. 3 b is a cross-sectional view of the sheet of FIG. 3 a, taken alongline 3 b-3 b;

FIG. 4 a is a top, perspective view of a sheet incorporating embeddedNIR light-emitting particles throughout and NIR light-emitting particleson a portion of the surface of the sheet;

FIG. 4 b is a cross-sectional view of the sheet of FIG. 4 a, taken alongline 4 b-4 b;

FIG. 5 is an exploded top, perspective view of a multi-layered sheet,the upper surface of the lower sheet incorporating NIR light-emittingparticles;

FIG. 6 is an illustration of a woven textile incorporating fibersaccording to the present invention;

FIG. 7 is an illustration of a cosmetic applicator portion having aflocked tip end piece incorporating fibers according to the presentinvention;

FIG. 8 is an illustration of another cosmetic applicator portion havinga foam tip end piece incorporating embedded NIR light-emittingparticles;

FIG. 9 is an illustration of a cosmetic applicator portion provided witha comb end piece containing embedded NIR light-emitting particles;

FIG. 10 is an illustration of a cosmetic applicator portion providedwith a brush end piece incorporating bristles according to the presentinvention;

FIG. 11 is an illustration of another embodiment of a cosmeticapplicator portion provided with a brush end piece incorporatingbristles according to the present invention;

FIG. 12 is an illustration of another embodiment of a cosmeticapplicator portion provided with a brush end piece incorporatingbristles according to the present invention;

FIG. 13 is an illustration of a hair brush incorporating bristlesaccording to the present invention; and

FIG. 14 is an illustration of a toothbrush incorporating bristlesaccording to the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

Long persistent-phosphorescence phenomena are well-known.Long-persistent phosphors in the visible region have been well-developedand widely applied in such various fields as security signs, emergencyroute signs, safety indication, and indicators of control panels in darkenvironments or in the night. Additionally, materials which emit visiblelight after exposure to sunlight are well-known, e.g., glow-in-the-darkstickers, toys, and the like. It is also known to use luminescentmaterials e.g., ZnS:Cu phosphor, in glow in the dark cosmetics, such aslipstick. These products glow in the dark when exposed to ultraviolet(UV) irradiation. In contrast, research and development oflong-persistent phosphors in the NIR regions (650-900 nm wavelengths),the region of the light spectrum closest in wavelength to the radiationdetectable by the human eye, have progressed more slowly compared withtheir visible counterparts. NIR is most commonly known for use in fiberoptic telecommunications and in night vision devices such as goggleswhen there is insufficient light to see. Such devices operate byconverting ambient visible light photons into electrons which are thenamplified by a chemical and electrical process and converted back intovisible light. NIR-persistent phosphors with afterglow are also known.These phosphors require sunlight (UV light) for excitation anddemonstrate emission periods of a few minutes to a few hours.

Surprisingly, to the Applicants' knowledge, to date, there are nocosmetic formulations which incorporate a NIR light-emitting materialand which can provide the benefits to the body, and in particular, tothe skin, scalp and/or the hair, previously observed only with the useof devices. Nevertheless, as exposure to sunlight is associated withharmful effects (i.e., burning; premature aging, including skinwrinkling; skin cancer; etc.) on the skin and even the hair, it would bedesirable to incorporate into cosmetic and/or dermatological products,NIR light-emitting materials which do not require extended periods ofexposure to UV light for excitation. Additionally, it would beappreciated by users of such products if the NIR light emission periodwould last for a longer period of time than that time provided byexposure to a laser or LED device, and more preferably, for more than afew hours. Furthermore, products which do not require a device orinstrument, such as a laser, to administer, would be greatly appreciatedby consumers. The present invention is therefore concerned withproviding cosmetic products and methods which incorporate a NIRlight-emitting material which requires only minimal exposure to UV lightfor excitation and which demonstrates a long-lasting emission period;that is, persistent, long-term effects in contrast with those effectsobtainable from discrete or isolated treatments provided by devicesemitting NIR light. Additionally, the benefits of the present inventionmay be achieved without costly office visits to a trained professional.

In accordance with one aspect of the present invention, cosmetic ordermatological compositions which incorporate a material which emits NIRlight in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle areprovided.

Therapeutic benefits obtainable with compositions of the presentinvention include any of the benefits obtainable with the use of LLLTtherapy, including, but not limited to, stimulation of collagen and/orelastin production in skin; improvement in the texture of skin, such asby reducing the size of pores in the skin, reducing the size and/ordepth of wrinkles in the skin, reduction in the appearance of cellulitein the skin; reduction in inflammation in the skin; evening the skintone; treatment of acne; reduction in the appearance of acne scarring onthe skin; enhancement of DNA synthesis and repair; rejuvenation of thehair and scalp, such as by stimulation of the growth phase of hairfollicles, including dormant hair follicles, smoothing of the haircuticle, and reduction in seborrhoiec inflammation.

Any material which emits NIR light, and which is not toxic for use onthe human body, including the skin, scalp and/or hair, may be used inthe compositions of the present invention. Useful NIR light-emittingmaterials may include, but are not limited to, inorganic luminescentmaterials of the type widely used for applications such as emergencyguiding signs, luminous paints, and in vivo diagnostic imaging, such as,but not limited to, phosphors of MgSiO₃:Eu²⁺ Dy³⁺, Mn²⁺;Ca_(0.2)Zn_(0.9)Mg_(0.9)Si₂O₆, doped with Eu²⁺, Dy⁺, Mn²⁺; SrAl₂O₄:Eu²⁺, Dy³⁺, Er³⁺; La₃Ga₅Ge₃O₁₄:Cr³⁺, with or without co-dopants such asLi⁺, Zn²⁺, Ca²⁺, Mg²⁺ and Dy³⁺; Ln₃Ga₂Ge₄O₁₄:Cr³⁺ (Ln=Y, Gd, La or Lu);LiGa₅O₈:Cr³⁺; M₃Ga₂Ge₄O₁₄:Cr³⁺ (M=Sr or Ca); La₃Ga₅SiO₁₄:Cr³⁺;La₃Ga_(5.5)Nb^(0.5)O₁₄:Cr³⁺; La₃Ga₅GeO₁₄:Cr³⁺; Gd₃Ga₅O12:Cr³⁺;Zn₃Ga₂Ge₂O₁₀:0.5% Cr³⁺; and ceramic-metallo composites, for example,those comprising boron powder, such as used in hairstyling irons; andthe like.

The NIR light-emitting material may also comprise organic luminescentmaterials, such as those typically used as probes in diagnostic imagingprocesses, for example, near infra-red fluorescence (NIRF) probes boundto natural or synthetic polymers, peptides, glucose analogs, fluorescentgold nanoclusters entrapped in bovine serum albumin and silica; and soforth. Additionally, since heme-related molecules, such as porphyrin-(heme-) containing proteins, i.e., cytochromes, found in mitochondria,are reported to be receivers and emitters of NIR light, these naturalmolecules, as well as heme-containing chlorophylls, Pt-porphyrin ringsystems, and the like, are contemplated for use in the compositions andmethods of the present invention. It is contemplated that the use of twoor more different NIR light-emitting materials may have an amplifying orsynergistic effect rather than merely an additive effect provided by theindividual materials.

NIR light-emitting materials useful in the compositions of the inventionare activated by absorbing UV or fluorescent light during brief exposureperiods of, for example, from about 1 minute to about 10 minutes.Preferably, the NIR light-emitting materials emit a long-lasting, nearinfra-red glow after only minimal exposure to UV light. By“long-lasting”, it is meant that the NIR light-emission period is atleast about 1 hour to several weeks, such as about 6 weeks, includingall time periods in-between, such as from at least about 8 hours toabout 2 weeks, after only an initial brief exposure to UV or fluorescentlight. More preferably, the NIR light-emission period is at least about24 hours to about 1 week. However, it will be appreciated that the NIRlight-emitting materials in the compositions of the present invention,once applied to the body, may be continually reactivated or recharged byexposure to UV or fluorescent light over an extended period of timewhile the compositions remain in contact with the body.

In one preferred embodiment of this aspect of the present invention, thecosmetic or dermatological compositions comprise a NIR light-emittingmaterial which absorbs and emits a near infra-red glow for up to about 2weeks after minimal exposure to UV light. Such “persistent” NIRlight-emitting materials contain the trivalent chromium ion, arecognized emitter of NIR light. When exposed to UV light, the trivalentchromium ion's electrons at ground state rapidly move to a higher energystate. As the electrons return to the ground state, energy is releasedas NIR light. The period of light emission from the trivalent chromiumion, however, is relatively short (i.e., a few milliseconds). Theluminescence of the long-persistent luminescent material, based on thechromium ion, lasts for many hours after the excitation has ceased. Thelong-persistent luminescent material contains two kinds of activecenters, emitters and traps. The emitters emit radiation after beingexcited. The traps do not emit radiation but store excitation energy andrelease it gradually to the emitters. One class of such long-persistentluminescent material employs chromium-doped zinc gallogermanate NIRpersistent phosphors in which a matrix of zinc and gallogermanate(“traps”) hosts the trivalent chromium ions (“emitters). The generalchemical formula for these phosphors can be written asZn_(x)Ga_(y)Ge_(z)O_((x+(3y/2)+2z)):tCr³⁺, mR where R is a co-dopantselected from a group consisting of alkaline earth ions, lanthanide ionsand Li+ ions; x, y and z are integers from 1 to 5; t is 0.01 to 5 mol %;and m is 0 to 5 mol %. One example of the material can be represented bythe formula Zn₃Ga₂Ge₂O₁₀:0.5% Cr³⁺. These materials are activated byexposure to UV or fluorescent light for a brief time period of onlyabout one minute. As the stored energy is released back to the chromiumions at room temperature, the compound persistently emits NIR light overa period of up to about two weeks. The material may be made in the formof, for example, ceramic discs or micro-powders, such as powders havinga particle size of 2-5μ. The powder form may be incorporated intovarious cosmetic and/or dermatological products which can endow theproducts with the ability to emit persistent NIR light or afterglowafter excitation.

A further aspect of the present invention concerns cosmetic ordermatological compositions comprising an NIR light-emitting material incombination with at least one skin, scalp and/or hair benefit or agent,in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

The NIR light-emitting materials employed may be any of the NIRlight-emitting materials mentioned hereinabove.

Skin, scalp and hair benefit agents useful in the compositions of thepresent invention include any such cosmetic or dermatologicaltherapeutic ingredient which results in a benefit to the skin, scalp orhair. While the therapeutic or benefit agents are not particularlylimited, preferred are those ingredients which stimulate the productionof collagen and/or elastin in skin; improve the texture of skin such asby reducing the size of pores in the skin, reducing the size and/ordepth of wrinkles in the skin, reducing the appearance of cellulite inthe skin; reduce inflammation in the skin; even the skin tone; treatacne; reduce the appearance of acne scarring on the skin; stimulate DNAsynthesis and repair; or which rejuvenate the hair or scalp, such as bystimulating the growth phase of hair follicles, including dormant hairfollicles, reducing seborrhoiec inflammation, and so forth, as describedin more detail hereinbelow.

Ingredients which stimulate neocollagenesis include, but are not limitedto, Vitamin C and its derivatives, for example, tetrahexyldecylascorbate; retinoids, Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), and soybeanextracts. Ingredients which stimulate the production of elastin include,but are not limited to, Vitamin C and alguronic acid. Such ingredientshave been reported to improve skin texture, reduce the size of pores,reduce the size and/or depth of wrinkles, and reduce the appearance ofcellulite.

Other ingredients which have been observed to improve skin textureinclude, but are not limited to, peptides, such as argeriline (acetylhexapeptide-3), Matryxil (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyloligopeptide), snake peptide and copper peptides; alpha hydroxy acids,such as glycolic acids; beta hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acids;co-enzyme Q10 (ubiquinone); ceramides; and Vitamin A. Further agentswhich are said to improve the appearance of cellulite includemethylxanthines (e.g., caffeine, aminophylline and theophylline) whichare also indicated in promoting lipolysis; and green tea extracts, e.g.,EGCG.

Ingredients which reduce inflammation in the skin include, but are notlimited to, niacinamide, quercetin, salicylic acid, alpha bisabolol,EGF, coffeeberry extract and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.

Anti-acne agents include, but are not limited to, benzoyl peroxide,salicylic acid, willow bark extract, niacinamide, epigallocatechingallate (EGCG), zinc, yeast beta glucans, saw palmetto extract,retinoids, nobiletin, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, dipotassiumglycyrrhizinate, alpha bisabolol, sulfur and quercetin.

Ingredients which reduce the appearance of acne scarring on the skininclude, but are not limited to, bleaching ingredients such ashydroquinone, and its derivatives, for example, arbutin; kojic acid;azelaic acid; Vitamins C and E; alpha hydroxy acids; niacinamide;licorice extract, pomegranate extract, ellagic acid; and ferulic acid.

Scalp-, and particularly, hair follicle-stimulating ingredients include,but are not limited to, Minoxidil(6-piperidin-1-ylpyrimidine-2,4-diamine 3-oxide); cinnamon bark oil;Vitamin B5; capsaicin; and peppermint (Mentha piperita). Anti-dandruffactives include, but are not limited to, Aloe Vera, coconut oil, teatree oil, oregano oil, Viola tricolor, honey, avocado extracts, Monardofistulosa (Wild bergamot), Lactobacillus casei, and Lactobacillusparacasei, Lactoferrin, Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), Vitamin B₆, Vitamin B₂,Vitamin B₃ (Nicotinamide or Niacinamide), Zinc, Blackcurrant seed oil,Milk of Magnesia, and Boswellia serrata extracts.

Therapeutic ingredients which stimulate DNA synthesis and repairinclude, but are not limited to, those DNA repair enzymes disclosed inU.S. Pat. Nos. 5,077,211; 5,190,762; 5,272,079; and 5,296,231, each ofwhich is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. One exampleof such a DNA repair enzyme may be purchased from AGI Dermatics underthe trade name Roxisomes®, and has the INCI name Arabidopsis Thalianaextract. It may be present alone or in admixture with lecithin andwater. This DNA repair enzyme is known to be effective in repairing8-oxo-diGuanine base mutation damage.

Another type of DNA repair enzyme that may be used is one that is knownto be effective in repairing O-6-methyl guanine base mutation damage. Itis sold by AGI Dermatics under the trade name Adasomes®, and has theINCI name Lactobacillus ferment, which may be added to the compositionof the invention by itself or in admixture with lecithin and water.

Another type of DNA repair enzyme that may be used is one that is knownto be effective in repairing T-T dimers. The enzymes are present inmixtures of biological or botanical materials. Examples of suchingredients are sold by AGI Dermatics under the trade names Ultrasomes®or Photosomes®. Ultrasomes® comprises a mixture of Micrococcus lysate(an end product of the controlled lysis of a species of micrococcus),lecithin, and water. Photosomes® comprises a mixture of plankton extract(which is the extract of a biomass which includes enzymes from one ormore of the following organisms: thalassoplankton, green micro-algae,diatoms, greenish-blue and nitrogen-fixing seaweed), water, andlecithin.

Another type of DNA repair enzyme may be a component of variousinactivated bacterial lysates such as Bifida lysate or Bifida fermentlysate, the latter a lysate from Bifido bacteria which contains themetabolic products and cytoplasmic fractions when Bifido bacteria arecultured, inactivated and then disintegrated. This material has the INCIname Bifida Ferment Lysate.

Other suitable DNA repair enzymes include Endonuclease V, which may beproduced by the denV gene of the bacteriophage T4. Also suitable are T4endonuclease; O-6-methylguanine-DNA methyltransferases; photolyases,base glycosylases such as uracil- and hypoxanthine-DNA glycosylases;apyrimidinic/apurinic endonucleases; DNA exonucleases, damaged-basesglycosylases (e.g., 3-methyladenine-DNA glycosylase); correndonucleaseseither alone or in complexes (e.g., E. coli uvrA/uvrB/uvrC endonucleasecomplex); APEX nuclease, which is a multi-functional DNA repair enzymeoften referred to as “APE”; dihydrofolate reductase; terminaltransferase; polymerases; ligases; and topoisomerases.

Other types of suitable DNA repair enzymes may be categorized by thetype of repair facilitated and include BER (base excision repair) or BERfactor enzymes such as uracil-DNA glycosylase (UNG); single strandselective monofunctional uracil DNA glycosylase (SMUG1);3,N(4)-ethenocytosine glycosylase (MBD4); thymine DNA-glycosylase (TDG);A/G-specific adenine DNA glycosylase (MUTYH); 8-oxoguanine DNAglycosylase (OGG1); endonuclease III-like (NTHL1); 3-methyladenine DNAglycosidase (MPG); DNA glycosylase/AP lyase (NEIL1 or 2); APendonuclease (APEX 1 and 2), DNA ligase (LIG3), ligase accessory factor(XRCC1); DNA 5′-kinase/3′-phosphatase (PNKP); ADP-ribosyltransferase(PARP1 or 2).

Another category of DNA repair enzymes includes those that are believedto directly reverse damage such as O-6-MeG alkyl transferase (MGMT);1-meA dioxygenase (ALKBH2 or ALKBH3).

Yet another category of enzymes operable to repair DNA/proteincrosslinks includes Tyr-DNA phosphodiesterase (TDP1).

Also suitable are MMR (mismatch excision repair) DNA repair enzymes suchas MutS protein homolog (MSH2); mismatch repair protein (MSH3); mutShomolog 4 (MSH4); MutS homolog 5 (MSH5); or G/T mismatch-binding protein(MSH6); DNA mismatch repair protein (PMS1, PMS2, MLH1, MLH3);Postmeiotic segregation increased 2-like protein (PMS2L3); orpostmeiotic segregation increased 2-like 4 pseudogene (PMS2L4).

Also suitable are DNA repair enzymes are those known as nucleotideexcision repair (NER) enzymes and include those such as XerodermaPigmentosum group C-complementing protein (XPC); RAD23 (S. cerevisiae)homolog (RAD23B); caltractin isoform (CETN2); RFA Protein 1, 2, of 3(RPA1, 2, or 3); 3′ to 5′ DNA helicase (ERCC3); 5′ to 3′ DNA helicase(ERCC2); basic transcription factor (GTF2H1, GTF2H2, GTF2H3, GTF2H4,GTF2H5); CDK activating kinase (CDK7, CCNH); cyclin G1-interactingprotein (MNAT1); DNA excision repair protein ERCC-1 or RAD-51; excisionrepair cross-complementing 1 (ERCC1); DNA ligase 1 (LIG1); ATP-dependenthelicase (ERCC6); and the like.

Also suitable may be DNA repair enzymes in the category that facilitatehomologous recombination and include, but are not limited to DNA repairprotein RAD51 homolog (RAD51, RAD51L1, RAD51B etc.); DNA repair proteinXRCC2; DNA repair protein XRCC3; DNA repair protein RAD52; ATPase(RAD50); 3′ exonuclease (MRE11A); and so on.

DNA repair enzymes that are DNA polymerases are also suitable andinclude DNA polymerase beta subunit (POLB); DNA polymerase gamma (POLG);DNA polymerase subunit delta (POLD1); DNA polymerase II subunit A(POLE); DNA polymerase delta auxiliary protein (PCNA); DNA polymerasezeta (POLZ); MAD2 homolog (REV7); DNA polymerase eta (POLH): DNApolymerase kappa (POLK): and the like.

Various types of DNA repair enzymes that are often referred to as“editing and processing nucleases” include 3′-nuclease; 3′-exonuclease;5′-exonuclease; endonuclease; and the like.

Other examples of DNA repair enzymes include DNA helicases, such as ATPDNA helicase, and so forth.

The DNA repair enzymes may be present as components of botanicalextracts, bacterial lysates, biological materials, and the like. Forexample, botanical extracts may contain DNA repair enzymes.

In accordance with a further aspect of the present invention, cosmeticor dermatological compositions which stimulate healing orregenerative/rejuvenative properties in the skin, scalp and/or hair areprovided. These compositions incorporate a material which emits NIRlight, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

The NIR light-emitting materials employed may be any of the NIRlight-emitting materials mentioned hereinabove.

Healing, regenerative, and/or rejuvenative properties include, but arenot limited to, anti-aging treatments, such as stimulating theproduction of collagen in skin, stimulating the production of elastin inskin, resurfacing the skin, such as by improving the texture of skin,reducing the size of pores in the skin, reducing the size and/or depthof wrinkles in the skin, and reducing the appearance of cellulite in theskin; stimulation of DNA synthesis and repair, reduction of inflammationin the skin; evening skin tone; treatment of acne; reduction in theappearance of acne scarring on the skin; stimulation of DNA synthesisand repair; and rejuvenation of the hair and/or scalp, includingstimulation of the growth phase of hair follicles, including dormantfollicles, and reducing seborrhoiec inflammation.

According to a preferred embodiment of this aspect of the presentinvention, cosmetic or dermatological compositions which stimulatehealing or regenerative properties in the skin, scalp and/or haircontain the NIR light-emitting material in combination with at least oneskin, scalp and/or hair benefit ingredient.

The NIR light-emitting material and the skin, scalp and/or hair benefitingredients may be any of those mentioned hereinabove.

Skin, scalp and/or hair benefit ingredients are those describedhereinabove. Particularly preferred skin benefit agents are those whichstimulate neocollagenesis or the production of elastin.

Cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions of the present invention maybe found in a variety of forms, such as anhydrous compositionscontaining organic solvents, such as oils or alcohols; or in hydrousforms, including aqueous-based solutions, serums, gels, creams, lotions,toners, mousses, sprays, ointments, essences, pastes; or in solid forms,such as sticks, microcapsules; any cosmetic product for the hand, face,lip, hair or body, including color cosmetic compositions, such asfoundation, blush, eyeshadow, concealer, lipgloss, lip balm, lipstick,mascara and the like; as well as in hair care products, includingshampoo, conditioner, masks, serums, styling lotions and balms; sun careproducts, depilatories, exfoliants, and so forth. The NIR-emittingmaterial may be dispersed in either the aqueous phase or the non-aqueousphase of the composition.

The NIR light-emitting material may be present in the compositions ofthe invention in amounts in the range of from about 0.001 wt. % to about99.99 wt. %, including any amounts in-between those amounts, such as inthe range of from about 0.01 wt. % to about 75 wt. %, for example, fromabout 0.1 wt. % to about 30 wt. %, or for another example, from about0.1 wt. % to about 5 wt. %. The particle size of the NIR light-emittingmaterial may be in the range of from about 100 nanometers to about 100micrometers, including any amounts in-between those amounts, forexample, from about 500 nanometers to about 20 micrometers. Preferably,the particle size is in the range of from about 250 nanometers to about10 micrometers, such as from about 1 micrometer to about 5 micrometers.

Although the NIR light-emitting material useful in the compositions ofthe invention may be used in particle form, it will be understood thatthe material may also be encapsulated or entrapped in any deliverysystem known for use with cosmetic and/or dermatological ingredients,including, but not limited to vesicles; microspheres, such as hollowmicrospheres; liposomes; and so forth.

As examples of hollow microspheres which may be used are those whichcomprise at least one synthetic polymer obtained by polymerization ofone or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers to form homopolymers orcopolymers of ethylenically unsaturated monomers or copolymers ofethylenically unsaturated monomers and one or more organic groups.Examples of ethylenically unsaturated monomers that may be suitableinclude, for example, vinylidene chloride, vinyl chloride,acrylonitrile, acrylic acid and its corresponding C₁-C₂₀ aliphatic oraromatic esters, methacrylic acid and its corresponding C₁-C₂₀ aliphaticor aromatic esters, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinyl pyrrolidone,alkenes such as styrene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, methylpentene,1,3-butadiene, and the like. The polymeric shells of the hollowmicrospheres may also be formed of suitable synthetic polymers, such aspolyesters, polyamides, polyphthalamides, polyimides, polycarbonates,polyketones, cellulose acetate, polysulfones, polyphenylene sulfides,polyphenylene oxides, polylactic acids, polyvinylpyrrolidone,polystyrene, polyacrylonitrile, polyacrylamide, polymethylmethacrylate,polyacrylates, and copolymers of the above-listed polymers. In aparticularly preferred embodiment, the deformable polymeric shells ofthe hollow microspheres are formed of a copolymer of vinylidenechloride, acrylonitrile, and/or methyl methyacrylate.

A preferred example of hollow microspheres are those having deformablepolymeric shells comprised of a copolymer of vinylidene chloride,acrylonitrile, and methylmethacrylate with an expandable fluid comprisedof isobutane or isopentane may be used, and are commercially availableunder the trade name of EXPANCEL® from Expancel, Inc. at Duluth, Ga. TheEXPANCEL® hollow microspheres are available in various forms, e.g., dry,wet, unexpanded or pre-expanded. Both the dry, unexpanded microspheres(EXPANCEL® DU) and the dry, expanded microspheres (EXPANCEL® DE) can beused in the present invention for entrapping and stabilizing the NIRlight-emitting material. The EXPANCEL® DU microspheres have an averageparticle size ranging from about 6 to about 40 microns and a density ofabout 1-1.3 g/cm³. The EXPANCEL® DE microspheres have an averageparticle size ranging from about 20 to about 150 microns and a densityof about 0.03-0.07 g/cm³.

Encapsulation may be used to provide controlled or delayed release ofthe NIR light-emitting material, or it may prevent the release of theNIR light-emitting material entirely without obstructing the NIR lightemissions to the skin, scalp or hair. Preferably, the physical and/orchemical properties of the entrapped NIR light-emitting material,pertaining to or associated with their desired activities in thecosmetic or topical compositions are not adversely affected, while thesignificantly larger microspheres, vesicles, liposomes, and so forth,may impart improved structural and spatial stability.

Microspheres may be coated or otherwise surface-treated with afilm-forming material, which forms a liquid-impermeable membrane overeach of the microspheres. In this manner, the microspheres are sealedfrom solvents in the surrounding environment, which may potentiallyre-swell the polymeric shells of the microspheres and cause theentrapped NIR light-emitting material to be prematurely released. Anymaterial capable of forming a liquid-impermeable membrane, eitherhydrophilic or hydrophobic, can be used. Suitable materials includefilm-forming materials such as natural or synthetic homo- or co-polymerscomprised of ethylenically unsaturated monomers including acrylic acid,methacrylic acid or their C₁-C₁₀ alkyl esters, ethylene, propylene, orvinylpyrrolidones; silicone gums, which are organosiloxanes generallyhaving a viscosity ranging from about 200,000 to 10,000,000 centipoiseat room temperature; animal, vegetable, silicone or mineral waxes;organic ester or hydrocarbon oils, or silicone resins such astrimethylsiloxy silicate or polymethylsilsesquioxane; cellulosicpolymers; fatty acids (e.g. fatty carboxylic acids having from about 6to 40 carbon atoms that may be liquid, solid or semi-solids at roomtemperature), fatty alcohols (e.g. alcohols having from 6 to 50 carbonatoms that may be liquid, solid, or semi-solid at room temperature), andinorganic materials. As an example, the film-forming material maycomprise an alkyl silicone polymer, for example, a fattyalkylmethylsiloxane, such as cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, orbehenyl dimethicone, or other modified siloxanes, such aspolyoxyalkylenated silicones typically referred to as dimethiconecopolyol or cetyl dimethicone copolyol. For example, apolymethylhydrogensiloxane, which is commercially available from DowCorning Corporation at Midland, Mich. under the trade name of DowCorning® MH 1107 fluid, may be used as the film-forming material. Thispolymethylhydrogensiloxane material is a colorless silicone liquid thatcan be heat cured in the presence of a catalyst (e.g., zinc octoate,iron octoate, dibutyl tin dilaurate, and tin octoate) to form a solid,liquid-impermeable membrane comprised of cross-linked dimethicone overthe microspheres. As another example, silicone copolymers commercializedby Dow Corning under the trade name of BIO-PSA, which are formed byreacting a siloxane resin with a diorganosiloxane, may also be used asfilm-forming materials. Various types of BIO-PSA materials availablefrom Dow Corning may be used, including Dow Corning® 7-4404, 7-4405, and7-4411 fluids (containing trimethylated silica treated withdimethylsiloxane and dispersed in a cosmetically acceptable solvent,such as octamethyltrisiloxane, isododecane, or decamethyltetrasiloxane).

The compositions of the present invention may contain additionalcosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable ingredients, includingsuch as described hereinbelow.

Suitable serums or gels will generally comprise from about 1-99% water,and optionally from about 0.001-30% of an aqueous phase thickeningagent. The other ingredients mentioned herein may be present in thepercentage ranges set forth.

Typical skin creams or lotions comprise from about 5-98% water, 1-85%oil, and from about 0.1 to 20% of one or more surfactants. Preferablythe surfactants are nonionic and may be in the form of silicones ororganic nonionic surfactants.

Typical color cosmetic compositions such as foundations, blush,eyeshadow, and the like, will preferably contain from about 5-98% water,1-85% oil, and from about 0.1 to 20% of one or more surfactants inaddition to from about 0.1 to 65% of particulates which are pigments ora combination of pigments and powders.

In the case where the compositions are in the form of aqueous solutions,dispersions or emulsions, in addition to water, the aqueous phase maycontain one or more aqueous phase structuring agents, that is, an agentthat increases the viscosity, or thickens, the aqueous phase of thecomposition. This is particularly desirable when the composition is inthe form of a serum or gel. The aqueous phase structuring agent shouldbe compatible with the NIR-emitting material and also compatible withthe other ingredients in the formulation. Suitable ranges of aqueousphase structuring agent, if present, are from about 0.01 to 30%,preferably from about 0.1 to 20%, more preferably from about 0.5 to 15%by weight of the total composition. Examples of such agents includevarious acrylate-based thickening agents, natural or synthetic gums,polysaccharides, and the like, including but not limited to those setforth below. The aqueous phase thickening agent also contributes tostabilizing ingredients in the composition and improving penetrationinto the stratum corneum. Such structuring agents may include thefollowing:

A. Polysaccharides

Polysaccharides may be suitable aqueous phase thickening agents.Examples of such polysaccharides include naturally derived materialssuch as agar, agarose, alicaligenes polysaccharides, algin, alginicacid, acacia gum, amylopectin, chitin, dextran, cassia gum, cellulosegum, gelatin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid, hydroxyethyl cellulose,methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, pectin, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum,pectin, trehelose, gelatin, and so on.

B. Acrylate Polymers

Also suitable are different types of synthetic polymeric thickeners. Onetype includes acrylic polymeric thickeners comprised of monomers A and Bwherein A is selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid,methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof; and B is selected from the groupconsisting of a C₁₋₂₂ alkyl acrylate, a C₁₋₂₂ alky methacrylate, andmixtures thereof are suitable. In one embodiment the A monomer comprisesone or more of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and the B monomer isselected from the group consisting of a C₁₋₁₀, most preferably C₁₋₄alkyl acrylate, a C₁₋₁₀, most preferably C₁₋₄ alkyl methacrylate, andmixtures thereof. Most preferably the B monomer is one or more of methylor ethyl acrylate or methacrylate. The acrylic copolymer may be suppliedin an aqueous solution having a solids content ranging from about10-60%, preferably 20-50%, more preferably 25-45% by weight of thepolymer, with the remainder water. The composition of the acryliccopolymer may contain from about 0.1-99 parts of the A monomer, andabout 0.1-99 parts of the B monomer. Acrylic polymer solutions includethose sold by Seppic, Inc., under the trade name Capigel. Also suitableare acrylic polymeric thickeners that are copolymers of A, B, and Cmonomers wherein A and B are as defined above, and C has the generalformula:

wherein Z is —(CH₂)_(m); wherein m is 1-10, n is 2-3, o is 2-200, and Ris a C₁₀₋₃₀ straight or branched chain alkyl. Examples of the secondarythickening agent above, are copolymers where A and B are defined asabove, and C is CO, and wherein n, o, and R are as above defined.Examples of such secondary thickening agents includeacrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, which is sold by Rohm &Haas under the trade name Acrysol ICS-1.

Also suitable are acrylate-based anionic amphiphilic polymers containingat least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl ether unitcontaining a fatty chain. Preferred are those where the hydrophilic unitcontains an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more specificallya vinyl carboxylic acid such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid ormixtures thereof, and where the allyl ether unit containing a fattychain corresponds to the monomer of the formula:

CH₂═CR′CH₂OB_(n)R

in which R′ denotes H or CH₃, B denotes the ethylenoxy radical, n iszero or an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbonradical selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkylradicals which contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to24, and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Morepreferred in this case is where R′ denotes H, n is equal to 10 and Rdenotes a stearyl (C₁₈) radical. Anionic amphiphilic polymers of thistype are described and prepared in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,677,152 and4,702,844, both of which are hereby incorporated by reference in theirentirety. Among these anionic amphiphilic polymers, polymers formed of20 to 60% by weight acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, of 5 to 60% byweight lower alkyl methacrylates, of 2 to 50% by weight allyl ethercontaining a fatty chain as mentioned above, and of 0 to 1% by weight ofa crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenicunsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl(meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate andmethylene-bisacrylamide. Commercial examples of such polymers arecrosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, ofpolyethylene glycol (having 10 EO units) ether of stearyl alcohol orsteareth-10, in particular those sold by the company Allied Colloidsunder the names SALCARE SC80 and SALCARE SC90, which are aqueousemulsions containing 30% of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylicacid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10).

Also suitable are acrylate copolymers such as Polyacrylate-3 which is acopolymer of methacrylic acid, methylmethacrylate, methylstyreneisopropylisocyanate, and PEG-40 behenate monomers; Polyacrylate-10 whichis a copolymer of sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium acrylate,acrylamide and vinyl pyrrolidone monomers; or Polyacrylate-11, which isa copolymer of sodium acryloyldimethylacryloyldimethyl taurate, sodiumacrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate, lauryl acrylate, butyl acrylate, andacrylamide monomers.

Also suitable are crosslinked acrylate based polymers where one or moreof the acrylic groups may have substituted long chain alkyl (such as6-40, 10-30, and the like) groups, for example acrylates/C₁₀₋₃₀ alkylacrylate crosspolymer which is a copolymer of C₁₀₋₃₀ alkyl acrylate andone or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of theirsimple esters crosslinked with the allyl ether of sucrose or the allylether of pentaerythritol. Such polymers are commonly sold under theCarbopol or Pemulen tradenames and have the CTFA name carbomer.

One particularly suitable type of aqueous phase thickening agent areacrylate-based polymeric thickeners sold by Clariant under theAristoflex trademark such as Aristoflex AVC, which is ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer; Aristoflex AVL which is the samepolymer as found in AVC dispersed in a mixture containingcaprylic/capric triglyceride, trilaureth-4, and polyglyceryl-2sesquiisostearate; or Aristoflex HMB which is ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, and thelike.

C. High Molecular Weight PEG or Polyglycerins

Also suitable as the aqueous phase thickening agents are variouspolyethylene glycols (PEG) derivatives where the degree ofpolymerization ranges from 1,000 to 200,000. Such ingredients areindicated by the designation “PEG” followed by the degree ofpolymerization in thousands, such as PEG-45M, which means PEG having45,000 repeating ethylene oxide units. Examples of suitable PEGderivatives include PEG 2M, 5M, 7M, 9M, 14M, 20M, 23M, 25M, 45M, 65M,90M, 115M, 160M, 180M, and the like.

Also suitable are polyglycerins which are repeating glycerin moietieswhere the number of repeating moieties ranges from 15 to 200, preferablyfrom about 20-100. Examples of suitable polyglycerins include thosehaving the CTFA names polyglycerin-20, polyglycerin-40, and the like.

In the event the compositions of the invention are in anhydrous oremulsion form, the composition will comprise an oil phase. Oilyingredients are desirable for the skin moisturizing and protectiveproperties. Suitable oils include silicones, esters, vegetable oils,synthetic oils, including but not limited to those set forth herein. Theoils may be volatile or nonvolatile, and are preferably in the form of apourable liquid at room temperature. The term “volatile” means that theoil has a measurable vapor pressure or a vapor pressure of at leastabout 2 mm. of mercury at 20° C. The term “nonvolatile” means that theoil has a vapor pressure of less than about 2 mm. of mercury at 20° C.Suitable oils may include the following:

A. Volatile Oils

Suitable volatile oils generally have a viscosity ranging from about 0.5to 5 centistokes 25° C. and include linear silicones, cyclic silicones,paraffinic hydrocarbons, or mixtures thereof. Volatile oils may be usedto promote more rapid drying of the skin care composition after it isapplied to skin. Volatile oils are more desirable when the skin careproducts are being formulated for consumers that have combination oroily skin. The term “combination” with respect to skin type means skinthat is oily in some places on the face (such as the T-zone) and normalin others.

1. Volatile Silicones

Cyclic silicones are one type of volatile silicone that may be used inthe composition. Such silicones have the general formula:

where n=3-6, preferably 4, 5, or 6.

Also suitable are linear volatile silicones, for example, those havingthe general formula:

(CH₃)₃Si—O—[Si(CH₃)₂—O]_(n)—Si(CH₃)₃

where n=0, 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5, preferably 0, 1, 2, 3, or 4.

Cyclic and linear volatile silicones are available from variouscommercial sources including Dow Corning Corporation and GeneralElectric. The Dow Corning linear volatile silicones are sold under thetradenames Dow Corning 244, 245, 344, and 200 fluids. These fluidsinclude hexamethyldisiloxane (viscosity 0.65 centistokes (abbreviatedcst)), octamethyltrisiloxane (1.0 cst), decamethyltetrasiloxane (1.5cst), dodecamethylpentasiloxane (2 cst) and mixtures thereof, with allviscosity measurements being at 25° C. Suitable branched volatilesilicones include alkyl trimethicones such as methyl trimethicone, abranched volatile silicone having the general formula:

Methyl trimethicone may be purchased from Shin-Etsu Silicones under thetradename TMF-1.5, having a viscosity of 1.5 centistokes at 25° C.

2. Volatile Paraffinic Hydrocarbons

Also suitable as the volatile oils are various straight or branchedchain paraffinic hydrocarbons having 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14,15, 16, 17, 18, 19, or 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 16 carbonatoms. Suitable hydrocarbons include pentane, hexane, heptane, decane,dodecane, tetradecane, tridecane, and C₈₋₂₀ isoparaffins as disclosed inU.S. Pat. Nos. 3,439,088 and 3,818,105, both of which are herebyincorporated by reference.

Preferred volatile paraffinic hydrocarbons have a molecular weight of70-225, preferably 160 to 190 and a boiling point range of 30 to 320,preferably 60 to 260° C., and a viscosity of less than about 10 cst. at25° C. Such paraffinic hydrocarbons are available from EXXON under theISOPARS trademark, and from the Permethyl Corporation. Suitable C₁₂isoparaffins are manufactured by Permethyl Corporation under thetradename Permethyl 99A. Various C₁₆ isoparaffins commerciallyavailable, such as isohexadecane (having the tradename Permethyl R), arealso suitable.

B. Non-Volatile Oils

A variety of nonvolatile oils are also suitable for use in thecompositions of the invention. The nonvolatile oils generally have aviscosity of greater than about 5 to 10 centistokes at 25° C., and mayrange in viscosity up to about 1,000,000 centipoise at 25° C. Examplesof nonvolatile oils include, but are not limited to:

1. Esters

Suitable esters are mono-, di-, and triesters. The composition maycomprise one or more esters selected from the group, or mixturesthereof.

(a) Monoesters

Monoesters are defined as esters formed by the reaction of amonocarboxylic acid having the formula R—COOH, wherein R is a straightor branched chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl having 2 to 45 carbonatoms, or phenyl; and an alcohol having the formula R—OH wherein R is astraight or branched chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl having 2-30carbon atoms, or phenyl. Both the alcohol and the acid may besubstituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Either one or both of theacid or alcohol may be a “fatty” acid or alcohol, and may have fromabout 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12, 14, 16, 18, or 22 carbonatoms in straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated form.Examples of monoester oils that may be used in the compositions of theinvention include hexyl laurate, butyl isostearate, hexadecylisostearate, cetyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, stearylheptanoate, isostearyl isononanoate, stearyl lactate, stearyl octanoate,stearyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, and so on.

(b). Diesters

Suitable diesters are the reaction product of a dicarboxylic acid and analiphatic or aromatic alcohol or an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol havingat least two substituted hydroxyl groups and a monocarboxylic acid. Thedicarboxylic acid may contain from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and may be inthe straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated form. Thedicarboxylic acid may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.The aliphatic or aromatic alcohol may also contain 2 to 30 carbon atoms,and may be in the straight or branched chain, saturated, or unsaturatedform. Preferably, one or more of the acid or alcohol is a fatty acid oralcohol, i.e. contains 12-22 carbon atoms. The dicarboxylic acid mayalso be an alpha hydroxy acid. The ester may be in the dimer or trimerform. Examples of diester oils that may be used in the compositions ofthe invention include diisotearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate,dibutyl sebacate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate,diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate,diisostearyl fumarate, diisostearyl malate, dioctyl malate, and so on.

(c). Triesters

Suitable triesters comprise the reaction product of a tricarboxylic acidand an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol or alternatively the reactionproduct of an aliphatic or aromatic alcohol having three or moresubstituted hydroxyl groups with a monocarboxylic acid. As with themono- and diesters mentioned above, the acid and alcohol contain 2 to 30carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branchedchain, and may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.Preferably, one or more of the acid or alcohol is a fatty acid oralcohol containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples of triesters includeesters of arachidonic, citric, or behenic acids, such as triarachidin,tributyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, tri C₁₂₋₁₃ alkyl citrate,tricaprylin, tricaprylyl citrate, tridecyl behenate, trioctyldodecylcitrate, tridecyl behenate; or tridecyl cocoate, tridecyl isononanoate,and so on.

Esters suitable for use in the composition are further described in theC.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Eleventh Edition,2006, under the classification of “Esters”, the text of which is herebyincorporated by reference in its entirety.

2. Hydrocarbon Oils

It may be desirable to incorporate one or more nonvolatile hydrocarbonoils into the composition. Suitable nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils includeparaffinic hydrocarbons and olefins, preferably those having greaterthan about 20 carbon atoms. Examples of such hydrocarbon oils includeC₂₄₋₂₈ olefins, C₃₀₋₄₅ olefins, C₂₀₋₄₀ isoparaffins, hydrogenatedpolyisobutene, polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene,mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, squalene, squalane, and mixturesthereof. In one preferred embodiment such hydrocarbons have a molecularweight ranging from about 300 to 1000 Daltons.

3. Glyceryl Esters of Fatty Acids

Synthetic or naturally occurring glyceryl esters of fatty acids, ortriglycerides, are also suitable for use in the compositions. Bothvegetable and animal sources may be used. Examples of such oils includecastor oil, lanolin oil, C₁₀₋₁₈ triglycerides,caprylic/capric/triglycerides, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil,sesame oil, camelina sativa oil, tamanu seed oil, coconut oil, corn oil,cottonseed oil, linseed oil, ink oil, olive oil, palm oil, illipebutter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil,walnut oil, and the like.

Also suitable are synthetic or semi-synthetic glyceryl esters, such asfatty acid mono-, di-, and triglycerides which are natural fats or oilsthat have been modified, for example, mono-, di- or triesters of polyolssuch as glycerin. In an example, a fatty (C₁₂₋₂₂) carboxylic acid isreacted with one or more repeating glyceryl groups. glyceryl stearate,diglyceryl diiosostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryldiisotearate, glyceryl tetraisostearate, glyceryl trioctanoate,diglyceryl distearate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glycerylisostearate, PEG castor oils, PEG glyceryl oleates, PEG glycerylstearates, PEG glyceryl tallowates, and so on.

4. Nonvolatile Silicones

Nonvolatile silicone oils, both water soluble and water insoluble, arealso suitable for use in the composition. Such silicones preferably havea viscosity ranging from about greater than 5 to 800,000 cst, preferably20 to 200,000 cst at 25° C. Suitable water insoluble silicones includeamine functional silicones such as amodimethicone.

For example, such nonvolatile silicones may have the following generalformula:

wherein R and R′ are each independently C₁₋₃₀ straight or branchedchain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, phenyl or aryl, trialkylsiloxy,and x and y are each independently 1-1,000,000; with the proviso thatthere is at least one of either x or y, and A is alkyl siloxy endcapunit. Preferred is where A is a methyl siloxy endcap unit; in particulartrimethylsiloxy, and R and R′ are each independently a C₁₋₃₀ straight orbranched chain alkyl, phenyl, or trimethylsiloxy, more preferably aC₁₋₂₂ alkyl, phenyl, or trimethylsiloxy, most preferably methyl, phenyl,or trimethylsiloxy, and resulting silicone is dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, ortrimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone. Other examples include alkyldimethicones such as cetyl dimethicone, and the like wherein at leastone R is a fatty alkyl (C₁₂, C₁₄, C₁₆, C₁₈, C₂₀, or C₂₂), and the otherR is methyl, and A is a trimethylsiloxy endcap unit, provided such alkyldimethicone is a pourable liquid at room temperature. Phenyltrimethicone can be purchased from Dow Corning Corporation under thetradename 556 Fluid. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone can be purchasedfrom Wacker-Chemie under the tradename PDM-1000. Cetyl dimethicone, alsoreferred to as a liquid silicone wax, may be purchased from Dow Corningas Fluid 2502, or from DeGussa Care & Surface Specialties under thetrade names Abil Wax 9801, or 9814.

5. Fluorinated Oils

Various types of fluorinated oils may also be suitable for use in thecompositions including but not limited to fluorinated silicones,fluorinated esters, or perfluoropolyethers. Particularly suitable arefluorosilicones such as trimethylsilyl endcapped fluorosilicone oil,polytrifluoropropylmethylsiloxanes, and similar silicones such as thosedisclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,118,496 which is hereby incorporated byreference. Perfluoropolyethers include those disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,183,589, 4,803,067, 5,183,588, all of which are hereby incorporated byreference, which are commercially available from Montefluos under thetrademark Fomblin.

In the case where the composition is anhydrous or in the form of anemulsion, it may be desirable to include one or more oil phasestructuring agents in the cosmetic composition. The term “oil phasestructuring agent” means an ingredient or combination of ingredients,soluble or dispersible in the oil phase, which will increase theviscosity, or structure, the oil phase. The oil phase structuring agentis compatible with the NIR-emitting, particularly if dispersed in thenonpolar oils forming the oil phase of the composition. The term“compatible” means that the oil phase structuring agent and NIR-emittingmaterial are capable of being formulated into a cosmetic product that isgenerally stable. The structuring agent may be present in an amountsufficient to provide a liquid composition with increased viscosity, asemi-solid, or in some cases a solid composition that may beself-supporting. The structuring agent itself may be present in theliquid, semi-solid, or solid form. Suggested ranges of structuring agentare from about 0.01 to 70%, preferably from about 0.05 to 50%, morepreferably from about 0.1-35% by weight of the total composition.Suitable oil phase structuring agents include those that are siliconebased or organic based. They may be polymers or non-polymers, synthetic,natural, or a combination of both. Such oil structuring agents mayinclude the following:

A. Silicone Structuring Agents

A variety of oil phase structuring agents may be silicone based, such assilicone elastomers, silicone gums, silicone waxes, and linear siliconeshaving a degree of polymerization that provides the silicone with adegree of viscosity such that when incorporated into the cosmeticcomposition it is capable of increasing the viscosity of the oil phase.Examples of silicone structuring agents include, but are not limited to:

1. Silicone Elastomers

Silicone elastomers suitable for use in the compositions of theinvention include those that are formed by addition reaction-curing, byreacting an SiH-containing diorganosiloxane and an organopolysiloxanehaving terminal olefinic unsaturation, or an alpha-omega dienehydrocarbon, in the presence of a platinum metal catalyst. Suchelastomers may also be formed by other reaction methods such ascondensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions in the presence ofan organotin compound via a dehydrogenation reaction betweenhydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and SiH-containingdiorganopolysiloxane or alpha omega diene; or by condensation-curingorganopolysiloxane compositions in the presence of an organotin compoundor a titanate ester using a condensation reaction between anhydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolysableorganosiloxane; peroxide-curing organopolysiloxane compositions whichthermally cure in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst.

One type of elastomer that may be suitable is prepared by additionreaction-curing an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 lower alkenylgroups in each molecule or an alpha-omega diene; and anorganopolysiloxane having at least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms ineach molecule; and a platinum-type catalyst. While the lower alkenylgroups such as vinyl, can be present at any position in the molecule,terminal olefinic unsaturation on one or both molecular terminals ispreferred. The molecular structure of this component may be straightchain, branched straight chain, cyclic, or network. Theseorganopolysiloxanes are exemplified by methylvinylsiloxanes,methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers,dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes,dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxanecopolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminateddimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers,trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxanecopolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminateddimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers,dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminatedmethyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes, anddimethylvinylsiloxy-terminateddimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers,decadiene, octadiene, heptadiene, hexadiene, pentadiene, or tetradiene,or tridiene.

Curing proceeds by the addition reaction of the silicon-bonded hydrogenatoms in the dimethyl methylhydrogen siloxane, with the siloxane oralpha-omega diene under catalysis using the catalyst mentioned herein.To form a highly crosslinked structure, the methyl hydrogen siloxanemust contain at least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in each moleculein order to optimize function as a crosslinker.

The catalyst used in the addition reaction of silicon-bonded hydrogenatoms and alkenyl groups, and is concretely exemplified bychloroplatinic acid, possibly dissolved in an alcohol or ketone and thissolution optionally aged, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and carrier-supported platinum.

Examples of suitable silicone elastomers for use in the compositions ofthe invention may be in the powder form, or dispersed or solubilized insolvents such as volatile or non-volatile silicones, or siliconecompatible vehicles such as paraffinic hydrocarbons or esters. Examplesof silicone elastomer powders include vinyl dimethicone/methiconesilesquioxane crosspolymers like Shin-Etsu's KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102,KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105, hybrid silicone powders that contain afluoroalkyl group like Shin-Etsu's KSP-200 which is a fluoro-siliconeelastomer, and hybrid silicone powders that contain a phenyl group suchas Shin-Etsu's KSP-300, which is a phenyl substituted siliconeelastomer; and Dow Corning's DC 9506. Examples of silicone elastomerpowders dispersed in a silicone compatible vehicle includedimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by a variety ofsuppliers including Dow Corning Corporation under the tradenames 9040 or9041, GE Silicones under the tradename SFE 839, or Shin-Etsu Siliconesunder the tradenames KSG-15, 16, 18. KSG-15 has the CTFA namecyclopentasiloxane/dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. KSG-18has the INCI name phenyl trimethicone/dimethicone/phenyl vinyldimethicone crossopolymer. Silicone elastomers may also be purchasedfrom Grant Industries under the Gransil trademark. Also suitable aresilicone elastomers having long chain alkyl substitutions such as lauryldimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by Shin Etsu underthe tradenames KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, and KSG-44.Cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers useful in the presentinvention and processes for making them are further described in U.S.Pat. No. 4,970,252; U.S. Pat. No. 5,760,116; U.S. Pat. No. 5,654,362;and Japanese Patent Application JP 61-18708; each of which is hereinincorporated by reference in its entirety. It is particularly desirableto incorporate silicone elastomers into the compositions of theinvention because they provide excellent “feel” to the composition, arevery stable in cosmetic formulations, and relatively inexpensive.

2. Silicone Gums

Also suitable for use as an oil phase structuring agent are one or moresilicone gums. The term “gum” means a silicone polymer having a degreeof polymerization sufficient to provide a silicone having a gum-liketexture. In certain cases the silicone polymer forming the gum may becrosslinked. The silicone gum typically has a viscosity ranging fromabout 500,000 to 100 million cst at 25° C., preferably from about600,000 to 20 million, more preferably from about 600,000 to 12 millioncst. All ranges mentioned herein include all subranges, e.g. 550,000;925,000; 3.5 million.

The silicone gums that are used in the compositions include, but are notlimited to, those of the general formula:

wherein R₁ to R₉ are each independently an alkyl having 1 to 30 carbonatoms, aryl, or aralkyl; and X is OH or a C₁₋₃₀ alkyl, or vinyl; andwherein x, y, or z may be zero with the proviso that no more than two ofx, y, or z are zero at any one time, and further that x, y, and z aresuch that the silicone gum has a viscosity of at least about 500,000cst, ranging up to about 100 million centistokes at 25° C. Preferred iswhere R is methyl or OH.

Such silicone gums may be purchased in pure form from a variety ofsilicone manufacturers including Wacker-Chemie or Dow Corning, and thelike. Such silicone gums include those sold by Wacker-Belsil under thetrade names CM3092, Wacker-Belsil 1000, or Wacker-Belsil DM 3096. Asilicone gum where X is OH, also referred to as dimethiconol, isavailable from Dow Corning Corporation under the trade name 1401. Thesilicone gum may also be purchased in the form of a solution ordispersion in a silicone compatible vehicle such as volatile ornonvolatile silicone. An example of such a mixture may be purchased fromBarnet Silicones under the HL-88 tradename, having the INCI namedimethicone.

3. Silicone Waxes

Another type of oily phase structuring agent includes silicone waxesthat are typically referred to as alkyl silicone waxes which aresemi-solids or solids at room temperature. The term “alkyl silicone wax”means a polydimethylsiloxane having a substituted long chain alkyl (suchas C16 to 30) that confers a semi-solid or solid property to thesiloxane. Examples of such silicone waxes include stearyl dimethicone,which may be purchased from DeGussa Care & Surface Specialties under thetradename Abil Wax 9800 or from Dow Corning under the tradename 2503.Another example is bis-stearyl dimethicone, which may be purchased fromGransil Industries under the tradename Gransil A-18, or behenyldimethicone, behenoxy dimethicone.

4. Polyamides or Silicone Polyamides

Also suitable as oil phase structuring agents are various types ofpolymeric compounds such as polyamides or silicone polyamides.

The term silicone polyamide means a polymer comprised of siliconemonomers and monomers containing amide groups as further describedherein. The silicone polyamide preferably comprises moieties of thegeneral formula:

X is a linear or branched alkylene having from about 1-30 carbon atoms;R₁, R₂, R₃, and R₄ are each independently C₁₋₃₀ straight or branchedchain alkyl which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl orhalogen groups; phenyl which may be substituted with one or more C₁₋₃₀alkyl groups, halogen, hydroxyl, or alkoxy groups; or a siloxane chainhaving the general formula:

and Y is:

(a) a linear or branched alkylene having from about 1-40 carbon atomswhich may be substituted with:

(i) one or more amide groups having the general formula R₁CONR₁, or

(ii) C₅₋₆ cyclic ring, or

(iii) phenylene which may be substituted with one or more C₁₋₁₀ alkylgroups, or

(iv) hydroxy, or

(v) C₃₋₈ cycloalkane, or

(vi) C₁₋₂₀ alkyl which may be substituted with one or more hydroxygroups, or

(vii) C₁₋₁₀ alkyl amines; or

(b) TR₅R₆R₇

wherein R₅, R₆, and R₇, are each independently a C₁₋₁₀ linear orbranched alkylenes, and T is CR₈ wherein R₈ is hydrogen, a trivalentatom N, P, or Al, or a C₁₋₃₀ straight or branched chain alkyl which maybe substituted with one or more hydroxyl or halogen groups; phenyl whichmay be substituted with one or more C₁₋₃₀ alkyl groups, halogen,hydroxyl, or alkoxy groups; or a siloxane chain having the generalformula:

Preferred is where R₁, R₂, R₃, and R₄ are C₁₋₁₀, preferably methyl; andX and Y are a linear or branched alkylene. Preferred are siliconepolyamides having the general formula:

wherein a and b are each independently sufficient to provide a siliconepolyamide polymer having a melting point ranging from about 60 to 120°C., and a molecular weight ranging from about 40,000 to 500,000 Daltons.One type of silicone polyamide that may be used in the compositions ofthe invention may be purchased from Dow Corning Corporation under thetradename Dow Corning 2-8178 gellant which has the CTFA namenylon-611/dimethicone copolymer which is sold in a compositioncontaining PPG-3 myristyl ether.

Also suitable are polyamides such as those purchased from ArizonaChemical under the tradenames Uniclear and Sylvaclear. Such polyamidesmay be ester terminated or amide terminated. Examples of esterterminated polyamides include, but are not limited to those having thegeneral formula:

wherein n denotes a number of amide units such that the number of estergroups ranges from about 10% to 50% of the total number of ester andamide groups; each R₁ is independently an alkyl or alkenyl groupcontaining at least 4 carbon atoms; each R₂ is independently a C₄₋₄₂hydrocarbon group, with the proviso that at least 50% of the R₂ groupsare a C₃₀-42 hydrocarbon; each R₃ is independently an organic groupcontaining at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one ormore oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and each R₄ is independently a hydrogenatom, a C₁₋₁₀ alkyl group or a direct bond to R₃ or to another R₄, suchthat the nitrogen atom to which R₃ and R₄ are both attached forms partof a heterocyclic structure defined by R₄—N—R₃, with at least 50% of thegroups R₄ representing a hydrogen atom.

General examples of ester and amide terminated polyamides that may beused as oil phase gelling agents include those sold by Arizona Chemicalunder the tradenames Sylvaclear A200V or A2614V, both having the CTFAname ethylenediamine/hydrogenated dimer dilinoleatecopolymer/bis-di-C₁₄₋₁₈ alkyl amide; Sylvaclear AF1900V; Sylvaclear C75Vhaving the CTFA name bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentylglycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer; SylvaclearPA1200V having the CTFA name Polyamide-3; Sylvaclear PE400V; SylvaclearWF1500V; or Uniclear, such as Uniclear 100VG having the INCI nameethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer; orethylenediamine/stearyl dimer ditallate copolymer. Other examples ofsuitable polyamides include those sold by Henkel under the Versamidtrademark (such as Versamid 930, 744, 1655), or by Olin MathiesonChemical Corp. under the brand name Onamid S or Onamid C.

5. Natural or Synthetic Organic Waxes

Also suitable as the oil phase structuring agent may be one or morenatural or synthetic waxes such as animal, vegetable, or mineral waxes.Preferably such waxes will have a higher melting point such as fromabout 50 to 150° C., more preferably from about 65 to 100° C. Examplesof such waxes include waxes made by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, such aspolyethylene or synthetic wax; or various vegetable waxes such asbayberry, candelilla, ozokerite, acacia, beeswax, ceresin, cetyl esters,flower wax, citrus wax, carnauba wax, jojoba wax, japan wax,polyethylene, microcrystalline, rice bran, lanolin wax, mink, montan,bayberry, ouricury, ozokerite, palm kernel wax, paraffin, avocado wax,apple wax, shellac wax, clary wax, spent grain wax, grape wax, andpolyalkylene glycol derivatives thereof such as PEG6-20 beeswax, orPEG-12 carnauba wax; or fatty acids or fatty alcohols, including estersthereof, such as hydroxystearic acids (for example 12-hydroxy stearicacid), tristearin, tribehenin, and so on.

6. Montmorillonite Minerals

One type of structuring agent that may be used in the compositioncomprises natural or synthetic montmorillonite minerals such ashectorite, bentonite, and quaternized derivatives thereof, which areobtained by reacting the minerals with a quaternary ammonium compound,such as stearalkonium bentonite, hectorites, quaternized hectorites suchas Quaternium-18 hectorite, attapulgite, carbonates such as propylenecarbonate, bentones, and the like.

7. Silicas and Silicates

Another type of structuring agent that may be used in the compositionsare silicas, silicates, silica silylate, and alkali metal or alkalineearth metal derivatives thereof. These silicas and silicates aregenerally found in the particulate form and include silica, silicasilylate, magnesium aluminum silicate, and the like.

The composition may contain one or more surfactants, especially if inthe emulsion form. However, such surfactants may be used if thecompositions are anhydrous also, and will assist in dispersingingredients that have polarity, for example pigments. Such surfactantsmay be silicone or organic based. The surfactants will aid in theformation of stable emulsions of either the water-in-oil or oil-in-waterform. If present, the surfactant may range from about 0.001 to 30%,preferably from about 0.005 to 25%, more preferably from about 0.1 to20% by weight of the total composition.

A. Silicone Surfactants

Suitable silicone surfactants include polyorganosiloxane polymers thathave amphiphilic properties, for example contain hydrophilic radicalsand lipophilic radicals. These silicone surfactants may be liquids orsolids at room temperature.

1. Dimethicone Copolyols or Alkyl Dimethicone Copolyols

One type of silicone surfactant that may be used is generally referredto as dimethicone copolyol or alkyl dimethicone copolyol. Thissurfactant is either a water-in-oil or oil-in-water surfactant having anHydrophile/Lipophile Balance (HLB) ranging from about 2 to 18.Preferably the silicone surfactant is a nonionic surfactant having anHLB ranging from about 2 to 12, preferably about 2 to 10, mostpreferably about 4 to 6. The term “hydrophilic radical” means a radicalthat, when substituted onto the organosiloxane polymer backbone, confershydrophilic properties to the substituted portion of the polymer.Examples of radicals that will confer hydrophilicity arehydroxy-polyethyleneoxy, hydroxyl, carboxylates, and mixtures thereof.The term “lipophilic radical” means an organic radical that, whensubstituted onto the organosiloxane polymer backbone, confers lipophilicproperties to the substituted portion of the polymer. Examples oforganic radicals that will confer lipophilicity are C₁₋₄₀ straight orbranched chain alkyl, fluoro, aryl, aryloxy, C₁₋₄₀ hydrocarbyl acyl,hydroxy-polypropyleneoxy, or mixtures thereof.

One type of suitable silicone surfactant has the general formula:

wherein p is 0-40 (the range including all numbers between and subrangessuch as 2, 3, 4, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, etc.), and PE is(—C₂H₄O)_(a)—(—C₃H₆O)_(b)—H wherein a is 0 to 25, b is 0-25 with theproviso that both a and b cannot be 0 simultaneously, x and y are eachindependently ranging from 0 to 1 million with the proviso that theyboth cannot be 0 simultaneously. In one preferred embodiment, x, y, z,a, and b are such that the molecular weight of the polymer ranges fromabout 5,000 to about 500,000, more preferably from about 10,000 to100,000, and is most preferably approximately about 50,000 and thepolymer is generically referred to as dimethicone copolyol.

One type of silicone surfactant is wherein p is such that the long chainalkyl is cetyl or lauryl, and the surfactant is called, generically,cetyl dimethicone copolyol or lauryl dimethicone copolyol respectively.

In some cases the number of repeating ethylene oxide or propylene oxideunits in the polymer are also specified, such as a dimethicone copolyolthat is also referred to as PEG-15/PPG-10 dimethicone, which refers to adimethicone having substituents containing 15 ethylene glycol units and10 propylene glycol units on the siloxane backbone. It is also possiblefor one or more of the methyl groups in the above general structure tobe substituted with a longer chain alkyl (e.g. ethyl, propyl, butyl,etc.) or an ether such as methyl ether, ethyl ether, propyl ether, butylether, and the like.

Examples of silicone surfactants are those sold by Dow Corning under thetrade name Dow Corning 3225C Formulation Aid having the CTFA namecyclotetrasiloxane (and) cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18dimethicone; or 5225C Formulation Aid, having the CTFA namecyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone; or Dow Corning 190Surfactant having the CTFA name PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone; or DowCorning 193 Fluid, Dow Corning 5200 having the CTFA name laurylPEG/PPG-18/18 methicone; or Abil EM 90 having the CTFA name cetylPEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone sold by Goldschmidt; or Abil EM 97 having theCTFA name bis-cetyl PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone sold by Goldschmidt; orAbil WE 09 having the CTFA name cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone in amixture also containing polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and hexyl laurate; orKF-6011 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA name PEG-11 methylether dimethicone; KF-6012 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFAname PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether dimethicone; or KF-6013 sold by Shin-EtsuSilicones having the CTFA name PEG-9 dimethicone; or KF-6015 sold byShin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA name PEG-3 dimethicone; or KF-6016sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA name PEG-9 methyl etherdimethicone; or KF-6017 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA namePEG-10 dimethicone; or KF-6038 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having theCTFA name lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.

2. Crosslinked Silicone Surfactants Also suitable are various types ofcrosslinked silicone surfactants that are often referred to asemulsifying elastomers. They are typically prepared as set forth abovewith respect to the section “silicone elastomers” except that thesilicone elastomers will contain at least one hydrophilic moiety such aspolyoxyalkylenated groups. Typically these polyoxyalkylenated siliconeelastomers are crosslinked organopolysiloxanes that may be obtained by acrosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane comprising atleast one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene comprisingat least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. In at least oneembodiment, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organo-polysiloxanes areobtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxanecomprising at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and apolyoxyalkylene comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturatedgroups, optionally in the presence of a platinum catalyst, as described,for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986, U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004, U.S.Pat. No. 5,837,793 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487, the contents of whichare hereby incorporated by reference in their entireties.

Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers that may be used in at least oneembodiment of the invention include those sold by Shin-Etsu Siliconesunder the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33; KSG-210which is dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer dispersed in dimethicone;KSG-310 which is PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer; KSG-320 whichis PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer dispersed in isododecane;KSG-330 (the former dispersed in triethylhexanoin), KSG-340 which is amixture of PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer and PEG-15 lauryldimethicone crosspolymer.

Also suitable are polyglycerolated silicone elastomers like thosedisclosed in PCT/WO 2004/024798, which is hereby incorporated byreference in its entirety. Such elastomers include Shin-Etsu's KSGseries, such as KSG-710 which is dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymerdispersed in dimethicone; or lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3crosspolymer dispersed in a variety of solvent such as isododecane,dimethicone, triethylhexanoin, sold under the Shin-Etsu tradenamesKSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, or KSG-840. Also suitable are silicones soldby Dow Corning under the tradenames 9010 and DC9011.

One preferred crosslinked silicone elastomer emulsifier isdimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, which provides excellent aestheticsdue to its elastomeric backbone, but also surfactancy properties.

B. Organic Nonionic Surfactants

The composition may comprise one or more nonionic organic surfactants.Suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated alcohols, or ethers,formed by the reaction of an alcohol with an alkylene oxide, usuallyethylene or propylene oxide. Preferably the alcohol is either a fattyalcohol having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of such ingredientsinclude Steareth 2-100, which is formed by the reaction of stearylalcohol and ethylene oxide and the number of ethylene oxide units rangesfrom 2 to 100; Beheneth 5-30 which is formed by the reaction of behenylalcohol and ethylene oxide where the number of repeating ethylene oxideunits is 5 to 30; Ceteareth 2-100, formed by the reaction of a mixtureof cetyl and stearyl alcohol with ethylene oxide, where the number ofrepeating ethylene oxide units in the molecule is 2 to 100; Ceteth 1-45which is formed by the reaction of cetyl alcohol and ethylene oxide, andthe number of repeating ethylene oxide units is 1 to 45, and so on.

Other alkoxylated alcohols are formed by the reaction of fatty acids andmono-, di- or polyhydric alcohols with an alkylene oxide. For example,the reaction products of C₆₋₃₀ fatty carboxylic acids and polyhydricalcohols which are monosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, methylglucose, and the like, with an alkoxylated alcohol. Examples includepolymeric alkylene glycols reacted with glyceryl fatty acid esters suchas PEG glyceryl oleates, PEG glyceryl stearate; or PEGpolyhydroxyalkanoates such as PEG dipolyhydroxystearate wherein thenumber of repeating ethylene glycol units ranges from 3 to 1000.

Also suitable as nonionic surfactants are those formed by the reactionof a carboxylic acid with an alkylene oxide or with a polymeric ether.The resulting products have the general formula:

where RCO is the carboxylic ester radical, X is hydrogen or lower alkyl,and n is the number of polymerized alkoxy groups. In the case of thediesters, the two RCO-groups do not need to be identical. Preferably, Ris a C₆₋₃₀ straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl,and n is from 1-100.

Monomeric, homopolymeric, or block copolymeric ethers are also suitableas nonionic surfactants. Typically, such ethers are formed by thepolymerization of monomeric alkylene oxides, generally ethylene orpropylene oxide. Such polymeric ethers have the following generalformula:

wherein R is H or lower alkyl and n is the number of repeating monomerunits, and ranges from 1 to 500.

Other suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated sorbitan andalkoxylated sorbitan derivatives. For example, alkoxylation, inparticular ethoxylation of sorbitan provides polyalkoxylated sorbitanderivatives. Esterification of polyalkoxylated sorbitan providessorbitan esters such as the polysorbates. For example, thepolyalkyoxylated sorbitan can be esterified with C₆₋₃₀, preferablyC12-22 fatty acids. Examples of such ingredients include Polysorbates20-85, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan palmitate,sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan stearate, and so on.

Certain types of amphoteric, zwitterionic, or cationic surfactants mayalso be used in the compositions. Descriptions of such surfactants areset forth in U.S. Pat. No. 5,843,193, which is hereby incorporated byreference in its entirety.

It may be desirable to include one or more penetration enhancers in thecomposition. Penetration enhancers are ingredients that enhance thepenetration of the NIR light-emitting material and/or other skin, scalpor hair benefit agent, if present, into the keratinous surface to whichthe composition is applied. If present, suitable penetration enhancersmay range from about 0.001 to 30%, preferably from about 0.005 to 25%,more preferably from about 0.01 to 20%. Suitable penetration enhancersinclude, but are not limited to, lipophilic materials such as saturatedor unsaturated C₆₋₄₀ straight or branched chain fatty acids, orsaturated or unsaturated C₆₋₄₀ straight or branched chain fattyalcohols. Examples include oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid,oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and the like.

It may be desirable to include one or more film forming ingredients inthe cosmetic compositions of the invention. Suitable film formers areingredients that contribute to formation of a film on the keratinoussurface. In some cases the film formers may provide films that providelong wearing or transfer resistant properties such that the cosmeticapplied to the keratinous surface will remain for periods of timeranging from 3 to 16 hours. If present, such film formers may range fromabout 0.01 to 50%, preferably from about 0.1 to 40%, more preferablyfrom about 0.5 to 35% by weight of the total composition. The filmformers are most often found in the polymeric form and may be natural orsynthetic polymers. If synthetic, silicone polymers, organic polymers orcopolymers of silicones and organic groups may be acceptable. Suitablefilm formers include, but are not limited to:

A. Silicone Resins

One particularly suitable type of silicone film former is a siliconeresin. Silicone resins are generally highly crosslinked structurescomprising combinations of M, D, T, and Q units. The term “M” means amonofunctional siloxy unit having the general formula:

[Si—(CH₃)₃—O]_(0.5)

In cases where the M unit is other than methyl (such as ethyl, propyl,ethoxy, etc.) the M unit may have a prime after it, e.g. M′.

The term “D” means a difunctional siloxy unit having the generalformula:

Si—(CH₃)₂—O]_(1.0)

The difunctional unit may be substituted with alkyl groups other thanmethyl, such as ethyl, propyl, alkylene glycol, and the like, in whichcase the D unit may be referred to as D′, with the prime indicating asubstitution.

The term “T” means a trifunctional siloxy unit having the generalformula:

[Si—(CH₃)—O]_(1.5)

The trifunctional unit may be substituted with substituents other thanmethyl, in which case it may be referred to as T′.

The term “Q” refers to a quadrifunctional siloxy unit having the generalformula:

[Si—O—]_(2.0)

The silicone resins that may be used as film formers in the compositionsof the invention preferably comprise highly crosslinked combinations ofM, T, and Q units. Examples of such resins includetrimethylsiloxysilicate which can be purchased from Dow CorningCorporation as 749 Fluid, or from GE Silicones under the SR-1000 tradename. Also suitable is a silicone resin that contains a large percentageof T groups, such as MK resin sold by Wacker-Chemie, having the CTFAname polymethylsilsesquioxane.

B. Copolymers of Silicone and Organic Monomers

Also suitable for use as the film formers are copolymers of silicone andorganic monomers such as acrylates, methacrylates, and the like.Examples of such suitable film forming polymers include those commonlyreferred to as silicone acrylate or vinyl silicone copolymers, such asthose sold by 3M under the brand name “Silicone Plus” polymers such asSA-70, having the CTFA name Polysilicone-7 and is a copolymer ofisobutylmethacrylate and n-butyl endblocked polydimethylsiloxane propylmethacrylate; or VS-70 having the CTFA name Polysilicone-6, which is acopolymer of dimethylsiloxane and methyl-3 mercaptopropyl siloxanereacted with isobutyl methacrylate; or VS-80, having the CTFA namePolysilicone-8, which has the general structure:

where R represents the acrylates copolymer radical.

C. Organic Polymers

Also suitable as film formers include various types of organic polymerssuch as polymers formed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or theirsimple C₁₋₁₀ carboxylic acid esters, such as methyl methacrylate, methylacrylate, and the like.

Also suitable are various types of natural polymers such as shellac,natural resins, chitin, and the like.

The compositions of the invention may contain particulate materials inthe form of pigments, inert particulates, or mixtures thereof. Ifpresent, suggested ranges are from about 0.01-75%, preferably about0.5-70%, more preferably about 0.1-65% by weight of the totalcomposition. In the case where the composition may comprise mixtures ofpigments and powders, suitable ranges include about 0.01-75% pigment and0.1-75% powder, such weights by weight of the total composition.Suitable particulate materials may include the following:

A. Powders

The particulate matter may be colored or non-colored (for example white)non-pigmented powders. Suitable non-pigmented powders include, but arenot limited to, bismuth oxychloride, titanated mica, fumed silica,spherical silica, polymethylmethacrylate, micronized teflon, boronnitride, acrylate copolymers, aluminum silicate, aluminum starchoctenylsuccinate, bentonite, calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, cornstarch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, glyceryl starch, hectorite,hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesiumtrisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose,rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zincmyristate, zinc rosinate, alumina, attapulgite, calcium carbonate,calcium silicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon, silica silylate, silk powder,sericite, soy flour, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesiumphosphate, walnut shell powder, or mixtures thereof. The above mentionedpowders may be surface treated with lecithin, amino acids, mineral oil,silicone, or various other agents either alone or in combination, whichcoat the powder surface and render the particles more lipophilic innature.

B. Pigments

The particulate materials may comprise various organic and/or inorganicpigments. The organic pigments are generally various aromatic typesincluding azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthroquinone, and xanthinedyes which are designated as D&C and FD&C blues, browns, greens,oranges, reds, yellows, etc. Organic pigments generally consist ofinsoluble metallic salts of certified color additives, referred to asthe Lakes. Inorganic pigments include iron oxides, ultramarines,chromium, chromium hydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof. Iron oxidesof red, blue, yellow, brown, black, and mixtures thereof are suitable.

The composition may contain 0.001-8%, preferably 0.01-6%, morepreferably 0.05-5% by weight of the total composition of preservatives.A variety of preservatives are suitable, including, but not limited to,benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, benzylhemiformal, benzylparaben,5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, butylparaben, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, diazolidinylurea, calcium benzoate, calcium propionate, caprylyl glycol, biguanidederivatives, phenoxyethanol, captan, chlorhexidine diacetate,chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride,chloroacetamide, chlorobutanol, p-chloro-m-cresol, chlorophene,chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, m-cresol, o-cresol, DEDM Hydantoin, DEDMHydantoin dilaurate, dehydroacetic acid, diazolidinyl urea,dibromopropamidine diisethionate, DMDM Hydantoin, and the like. In onepreferred embodiment the composition is free of parabens.

It may also be desirable to include one or more humectants in thecomposition. If present, such humectants may range from about 0.001 to25%, preferably from about 0.005 to 20%, more preferably from about 0.1to 15% by weight of the total composition. Examples of suitablehumectants include glycols, sugars, and the like. Suitable glycols arein monomeric or polymeric form and include polyethylene andpolypropylene glycols such as PEG 4-200, which are polyethylene glycolshaving from 4 to 200 repeating ethylene oxide units; as well as C₁₋₆alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentyleneglycol, and the like. Suitable sugars, some of which are also polyhydricalcohols, are also suitable humectants. Examples of such sugars includeglucose, fructose, honey, hydrogenated honey, inositol, maltose,mannitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, xylose, and so on. Alsosuitable is urea. Preferably, the humectants used in the composition ofthe invention are C₁₋₆, preferably C₂₋₄ alkylene glycols, mostparticularly butylene glycol.

It may be desirable to include one or more botanical extracts in thecompositions. If so, suggested ranges are from about 0.0001 to 10%,preferably about 0.0005 to 8%, more preferably about 0.001 to 5% byweight of the total composition. Suitable botanical extracts includeextracts from plants (herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, seeds) such asflowers, fruits, vegetables, and so on, including yeast ferment extract,Padina pavonica extract, Thermus thermophilis ferment extract, Camelinasativa seed oil, Boswellia serrata extract, olive extract, Aribodopsisthaliana extract, Acacia dealbata extract, Acer saccharinum (sugarmaple), acidopholus, acorus, aesculus, agaricus, agave, agrimonia,algae, aloe, citrus, brassica, cinnamon, orange, apple, blueberry,cranberry, peach, pear, lemon, lime, pea, seaweed, caffeine, green tea,chamomile, willowbark, mulberry, poppy, and those set forth on pages1646 through 1660 of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, EighthEdition, Volume 2. Further specific examples include, but are notlimited to, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Salix nigra, Macrocycstis pyrifera,Pyrus malus, Saxifraga sarmentosa, Vitis vinifera, Morus nigra,Scutellaria baicalensis, Anthemis nobilis, Salvia sclarea, Rosmarinusofficianalis, Citrus medica Limonum, Panax, Ginseng, Siegesbeckiaorientalis, Fructus mume, Ascophyllum nodosum, Bifida Ferment lysate,Glycine soja extract, Beta vulgaris, Haberlea rhodopensis, Polygonumcuspidatum, Citrus Aurantium dulcis, Vitis vinifera, Selaginellatamariscina, Humulus lupulus, Citrus reticulata Peel, Punica granatum,Asparagopsis, Curcuma longa, Menyanthes trifoliata, Helianthus annuus,Hordeum vulgare, Cucumis sativus, Evernia prunastri, Evernia furfuracea,and mixtures thereof.

It may also be desirable to include one or more sunscreens in thecompositions of the invention. Such sunscreens include chemical UVA orUVB sunscreens or physical sunscreens in the particulate form. Inclusionof sunscreens in the compositions will provide additional protection toskin during daylight hours and promote the effectiveness of theNIR-emitting material and/or skin or hair benefit agents on the skin orin the hair follicle. Such sunscreen compounds may include thefollowing:

A. UVA Chemical Sunscreens

If desired, the composition may comprise one or more UVA sunscreens. Theterm “UVA sunscreen” means a chemical compound that blocks UV radiationin the wavelength range of about 320 to 400 nm. Preferred UVA sunscreensare dibenzoylmethane compounds having the general formula:

wherein R₁ is H, OR and NRR wherein each R is independently H, C₁₋₂₀straight or branched chain alkyl; R₂ is H or OH; and R₃ is H, C₁₋₂₀straight or branched chain alkyl.

Preferred is where R₁ is OR where R is a C₁₋₂₀ straight or branchedalkyl, preferably methyl; R₂ is H; and R₃ is a C₁₋₂₀ straight orbranched chain alkyl, more preferably, butyl.

Examples of suitable UVA sunscreen compounds of this general formulainclude 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 2-methyldibenzoylmethane,4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane,2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane,4,4′diisopropylbenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane,4,4′-diisopropylbenzoylmethane,2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4′-methoxydibenzoymethane,2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, and so on.Particularly preferred is 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, alsoreferred to as Avobenzone. Avobenzone is commercial available fromGivaudan-Roure under the trademark Parsol 1789, and Merck & Co. underthe tradename Eusolex 9020.

Other types of UVA sunscreens include dicamphor sulfonic acidderivatives, such as ecamsule, a sunscreen sold under the trade nameMexoryl™, which is terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, having theformula:

The composition may contain from about 0.001-20%, preferably 0.005-5%,more preferably about 0.005-3% by weight of the composition of UVAsunscreen. In the preferred embodiment of the invention the UVAsunscreen is Avobenzone, and it is present at not greater than about 3%by weight of the total composition.

B. UVB Chemical Sunscreens

The term “UVB sunscreen” means a compound that blocks UV radiation inthe wavelength range of from about 290 to 320 nm. A variety of UVBchemical sunscreens exist including alpha-cyano-beta,beta-diphenylacrylic acid esters as set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 3,215,724, which ishereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. One particular exampleof an alpha-cyano-beta,beta-diphenyl acrylic acid ester is Octocrylene,which is 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate. In certain cases thecomposition may contain no more than about 110% by weight of the totalcomposition of octocrylene. Suitable amounts range from about 0.001-10%by weight Octocrylene may be purchased from BASF under the tradenameUvinul N-539.

Other suitable sunscreens include benzylidene camphor derivatives as setforth in U.S. Pat. No. 3,781,417, which is hereby incorporated byreference in its entirety. Such benzylidene camphor derivatives have thegeneral formula:

wherein R is p-tolyl or styryl, preferably styryl. Particularlypreferred is 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, which is a lipid soluble UVBsunscreen compound sold under the tradename Eusolex 6300 by Merck. Alsosuitable are cinnamate derivatives having the general formula:

wherein R and R₁ are each independently a C₁₋₂₀ straight or branchedchain alkyl. Preferred is where R is methyl and R₁ is a branched chainC₁₋₁₀, preferably C₈ alkyl. The preferred compound is ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, also referred to as Octoxinate or octylmethoxycinnamate. The compound may be purchased from GivaudanCorporation under the tradename Parsol MCX, or BASF under the tradenameUvinul MC 80. Also suitable are mono-, di-, and triethanolaminederivatives of such methoxy cinnamates including diethanolaminemethoxycinnamate. Cinoxate, the aromatic ether derivative of the abovecompound is also acceptable. If present, the Cinoxate should be found atno more than about 3% by weight of the total composition.

Also suitable as UVB screening agents are various benzophenonederivatives having the general formula:

wherein R through R₉ are each independently H, OH, NaO₃S, SO₃H, SO₃Na,Cl, R″, OR″ where R″ is C₁₋₂₀ straight or branched chain alkyl Examplesof such compounds include Benzophenone 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,11, and 12. Particularly preferred is where the benzophenone derivativeis Benzophenone 3 (also referred to as Oxybenzone), Benzophenone 4 (alsoreferred to as Sulisobenzone), Benzophenone 5 (Sulisobenzone Sodium),and the like. Most preferred is Benzophenone 3.

Also suitable are certain menthyl salicylate derivatives having thegeneral formula:

wherein R₁, R₂, R₃, and R₄ are each independently H, OH, NH₂, or C₁₋₂₀straight or branched chain alkyl. Particularly preferred is where R₁,R₂, and R₃ are methyl and R₄ is hydroxyl or NH₂, the compound having thename homomethyl salicylate (also known as Homosalate) or menthylanthranilate. Homosalate is available commercially from Merck under thetradename Eusolex HMS and menthyl anthranilate is commercially availablefrom Haarmann & Reimer under the tradename Heliopan. If present, theHomosalate should be found at no more than about 15% by weight of thetotal composition.

Various amino benzoic acid derivatives are suitable UVB absorbersincluding those having the general formula:

wherein R₁, R₂, and R₃ are each independently H, C₁₋₂₀ straight orbranched chain alkyl which may be substituted with one or more hydroxygroups. Particularly preferred is wherein R₁ is H or C₁₋₈ straight orbranched alkyl, and R₂ and R₃ are H, or C₁₋₈ straight or branched chainalkyl. Particularly preferred are PABA, ethyl hexyl dimethyl PABA(Padimate 0), ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, and the like. If presentPadimate 0 should be found at no more than about 8% by weight of thetotal composition. Salicylate derivatives are also acceptable UVBabsorbers. Such compounds have the general formula:

wherein R is a straight or branched chain alkyl, including derivativesof the above compound formed from mono-, di-, or triethanolamines.Particular preferred are octyl salicylate, TEA-salicylate,DEA-salicylate, and mixtures thereof.

Generally, the amount of the UVB chemical sunscreen present may rangefrom about 0.001-45%, preferably 0.005-40%, more preferably about0.01-35% by weight of the total composition.

If desired, the compositions of the invention may be formulated to havea certain SPF (sun protective factor) values ranging from about 1-50,preferably about 2-45, most preferably about 5-30. Calculation of SPFvalues is well known in the art.

It may be desirable to include one or more tyrosinase inhibiting agentsin the compositions of the invention. Such tyrosinase inhibitors mayinclude, but are not limited to, kojic acid, arbutin and hydroquinone.It may be desirable to include one or more further skin-lighteningcompounds in the compositions of the present invention. Suitableskin-lightening compounds include, but are not limited to, ascorbic acidand its derivatives, e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylglucosamine, ascorbyl palmitate. Other skin-lightening agents includeadapalene, aloe extract, ammonium lactate, anethole derivatives, appleextract, azelaic acid, bamboo extract, bearberry extract, bletillatuber, Bupleurum falcatum extract, burnet extract, butyl hydroxyanisole, butyl hydroxy toluene, deoxyarbutin, 1,3 diphenyl propanederivatives, 2,5 dihydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives,2-(4-acetoxyphenyl)-1,3 dithane, 2-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-1,3 dithane,ellagic acid, escinol, estragole derivatives, FADE OUT (available fromPentapharm), Fangfeng, fennel extract, ganoderma extract, gaoben,GATULINE WHITENING (available from Gattlefosse), genistic acid and itsderivatives, glabridin and its derivatives, gluco pyranosyl-1-ascorbate,gluconic acid, glycolic acid, green tea extract, placenta extract,4-Hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone, 4 hydroxyanisole and its derivatives,4-hydroxy benzoic acid derivatives, hydroxycaprylic acid, inositolascorbate, lactic acid, lemon extract, linoleic acid, MELA WHITE(available from Pentapharm), Morus alba extract, mulberry root extract,niacinamide, 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, parsley extract, phellinuslinteus extract, pyrogallol derivatives, retinoic acid, retinol, retinolesters (acetate, propionate, palmitate, linoleate), 2,4 resorcinolderivatives, 3,5 resorcinol derivatives, rose fruit extract, salicylicacid, 3,4,5 trihydroxybenzyl derivatives, tranexamic acid, vitamin D3and its analogs, and mixtures thereof.

It may be desirable to include one or more botanical extracts in thecompositions. If so, suggested ranges are from about 0.0001 to 10%,preferably about 0.0005 to 8%, more preferably about 0.001 to 5% byweight of the total composition. Suitable botanical extracts includeextracts from plants (herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, seeds) such asflowers, fruits, vegetables, and so on, including yeast ferment extract,Padina pavonica extract, Thermus thermophilis ferment extract, Camelinasativa seed oil, Boswellia serrata extract, olive extract, Aribodopsisthaliana extract, Acacia dealbata extract, Acer saccharinum (sugarmaple), acidopholus, acorns, aesculus, agaricus, agave, agrimonia,algae, aloe, citrus, brassica, cinnamon, orange, apple, blueberry,cranberry, peach, pear, lemon, lime, pea, seaweed, caffeine, green tea,chamomile, willowbark, mulberry, poppy, and those set forth on pages1646 through 1660 of the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, EighthEdition, Volume 2. Further specific examples include, but are notlimited to, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Salix nigra, Macrocycstis pyrifera,Pyrus malus, Saxifraga sarmentosa, Vitis vinifera, Morus nigra,Scutellaria baicalensis, Anthemis nobilis, Salvia sclarea, Rosmarinusofficianalis, Citrus medica Limonum, Panax, Ginseng, Siegesbeckiaorientalis, Fructus mume, Ascophyllum nodosum, Bifida Ferment lysate,Glycine soja extract, Beta vulgaris, Haberlea rhodopensis, Polygonumcuspidatum, Citrus Aurantium dulcis, Vitis vinifera, Selaginellatamariscina, Humulus lupulus, Citrus reticulata Peel, Punica granatum,Asparagopsis, Curcuma longa, Menyanthes trifoliata, Helianthus annuus,Hordeum vulgare, Cucumis sativus, Evernia prunastri, Evernia furfuracea,and mixtures thereof.

It may also be desirable to incorporate one or more DNA repair enzymesinto the composition of the invention. Suggested ranges are from about0.00001 to about 35%, preferably from about 0.00005 to about 30%, morepreferably from about 0.0001 to about 25% of one or more DNA repairenzymes. DNA repair enzymes useful in the compositions of the presentinvention are those described hereinabove.

In accordance with a further aspect of the present invention, cosmeticor dermatological compositions which stimulate healing orregenerative/rejuvenative properties in the skin, scalp and/or hair areprovided. These compositions incorporate a material which emits NIRlight, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle. The NIRlight-emitting materials employed may be any of the NIR light-emittingmaterials mentioned hereinabove. Healing, regenerative, and/orrejuvenative properties include, but are not limited to, anti-agingtreatments, such as stimulating the production of collagen in skin,stimulating the production of elastin in skin, resurfacing the skin,such as by improving the texture of skin, reducing the size of pores inthe skin, reducing the size and/or depth of wrinkles in the skin, andreducing the appearance of cellulite in the skin; stimulation of DNAsynthesis and repair, reduction of inflammation in the skin; treatmentsfor evening skin tone; treatment of acne; reduction in the appearance ofacne scarring on the skin; stimulation of DNA synthesis and repair;rejuvenation of the hair and/or scalp, such as stimulating the growthphase of hair follicles, including dormant follicles, and reducingseborrhoiec inflammation.

According to a preferred embodiment of this aspect of the presentinvention, cosmetic or dermatological compositions which stimulatehealing or regenerative/rejuvenative properties in the skin, scalpand/or hair contain the NIR light-emitting material in combination withat least one skin, scalp and/or hair benefit ingredient. The NIRlight-emitting material and the skin, scalp and/or hair benefitingredients may be any of those mentioned hereinabove. Skin, scalpand/or hair benefit ingredients may be any of those discussedhereinabove. Particularly preferred skin benefit agents are those whichstimulate neocollagenesis or the production of elastin.

Any conventional packaging known for use with cosmetic products may beused to contain, distribute or mix compositions of the presentinvention. In the case where the formulations contain ingredients whichmay be incompatible during storage but which could be mixed at the timeof use, or in the case that certain actives may be most efficacious whenmixed with the NIR-light emitting material at the time of application,the use of a binary package consisting of two separate containers withassociated separate nozzles or applicators is contemplated.

A still further aspect of the present invention concerns a substrate forincorporation into an article useful for stimulating a healing orregenerative/rejuvenative property in the skin, scalp and/or hair bytransmitting NIR light to the skin, scalp and/or hair when the NIRlight-emitting material is activated by exposure to UV or fluorescentlight, and the substrate contacts, or is otherwise positioned insufficient proximity to, the skin, scalp and/or hair to transmit the NIRlight to the surface to be treated. The substrate is formed of a solidbody and a NIR light-emitting material secured in or to the solid body.It will be understood that, because benefits are associated withproximity to the NIR light-emitting materials, direct contact with theskin, hair or scalp may not be necessary. NIR light-emitting materialsuseful in the substrates of the present invention include thosedescribed hereinabove. Materials useful in forming the solid substratebody are not particularly limited, provided that the NIR light-emittingmaterial may be secured in or to the solid body by any knownmanufacturing method. Such materials may include, for example, plastics,metals, ceramics, and combinations thereof, as described hereinbelow.

The NIR light-emitting material may be secured in or to the solid bodyin particulate form or as part of a formulation containing the NIRlight-emitting material, with or without additional skin, hair and/orscalp benefit agents, as described herein. The NIR light-emittingmaterial may be embedded in the solid body, secured in or onto the bodysurface or a combination thereof. The NIR light-emitting material mayalso be coated or painted onto the surface of the solid body.

Materials useful in forming the substrate solid body include, but arenot limited to, polymer/plastics, metals, ceramics, gels, foamstructures, such as sponges, and organic materials such as plant (e.g.,cotton, bamboo, Tampico, hemp) or animal fibers (e.g., wool). Thesubstrates may take various forms, including, but not limited to, asheet, a film, a fiber or a bristle, a textile or other product madefrom fiber or sheets, or any three-dimensional shape, such as a moldedor extruded shape.

In accordance with one embodiment of the present invention, FIGS. 1 aand 1 b show a substrate 1 having a body 2 in the form a fiber orbristle 10. NIR light-emitting particles 20 are secured in or to thesurface of fiber or bristle 10. In a further embodiment shown in FIGS. 2a and 2 b, NIR light-emitting particles 20′ are embedded in the fiber orbristle 30. NIR light-emitting particles 20 are also secured to or in aportion of the surface of fiber or bristle 30. In yet another embodimentof the invention shown in FIGS. 3 a and 3 b, substrate 60, in the formof a sheet, is provided with NIR light-emitting particles 20 secured toor in its surface. As further shown in FIGS. 4 a and 4 b, sheet 80 hasNIR light-emitting particles 20′ embedded throughout and NIRlight-emitting particles 20 also secured to or in a portion of the sheetsurface. Also contemplated is a fiber or a sheet in which NIRlight-emitting particles 20′ are embedded throughout, but are notprovided on a surface of, the fiber or sheet.

At least one sheet substrate according to the present invention may beincorporated into a composite or multi-layered article comprising atleast two layers of materials. Multi-layer substrates could have the NIRlight-emitting material disposed on or in the surfaces directlycontacting the skin, hair or scalp, on or in the surfaces opposite thecontact surface, or layered between substrate surfaces. A combination ofany of these configurations is also contemplated. The NIR light-emittingmaterials could be designed to be permanently affixed to the substratebody via adhesives, they could be present in a formula or deliverymaterial on the surface of the substrate body that is not permanentlyattached, or the materials could be designed to weakly bond to thesubstrate body surface, but adapted to detach when contacted by astronger force (i.e., attraction to the film and then dispersion ortransfer to the contacting surface by applied intermolecular force/Vander Waals force on the substrate surface). Shown in FIG. 5 is anexploded view of composite article 110, including sheet 120 layered oversheet 130. NIR light-emitting particles 20 are secured to or in theupper surface of sheet 130. A composite article useful in the presentinvention need not be limited to two sheets of materials and each sheetmay be formed of the same or different materials. Additionally, thesheet substrate may include NIR light-emitting particles 20, NIRlight-emitting particles 20′, or a combination thereof. The use of morethan one NIR light-emitting material in or on the same substrate is alsocontemplated.

Plastic or organic fibers or sheets may be utilized in woven textilesand nonwovens (e.g., fabrics that are bonded by chemicals, mechanically,thermally or with solvents) for use in patches, bandages, and so forth.As an example, fibers 10 and 30 are woven into textile material 150,shown in FIG. 6, together with fibers 50, which are embedded with NIRlight-emitting particles but which include no surface particletreatment, and fibers 160 which do not incorporate any NIRlight-emitting particles.

Fibers, sheets and textiles produced according to the present inventionmay be impregnated with cosmetic product, such as, but not limited to, acosmetic treatment product, a foundation product, or a sun protectionproduct. Optionally, such products could incorporate a NIRlight-emitting material which is the same or different from the NIRlight-emitting material in the fiber, sheet or textile.

FIGS. 7-12 show various non-limiting embodiments of cosmetic applicatorportions which incorporate substrates according to the present inventioncomprising NIR light-emitting particles which impart rejuvenatingbenefits to the skin, hair and/or the scalp. FIG. 7 illustrates acosmetic applicator 240 having end piece 250 which may be formed of aflocked material made from a combination of fibers 10 and 30. A furthercosmetic applicator 260, having foam end piece 270, incorporating NIRlight-emitting particles 20′, is shown in FIG. 8. Cosmetic applicator280, shown in FIG. 9, includes comb end piece 290 formed with embeddedNIR light-emitting particles 20′. The comb end piece may be formed from,for example, molded ceramic, molded plastic, cut from a plastics ormetal sheet, and so forth. As a further example, FIG. 10 illustrates abrush applicator 300 having end piece 310 which is formed of a feltmaterial made from fibers 10 and 30. The applicator may be used, forexample, for applying a lip product or for lining the eyes. Brush 320,having mascara brush end piece 330, is shown in FIG. 11. The mascarabrush is a twisted wire brush formed with bristles 10 and 30. A furtherexample of a cosmetic applicator according to the present invention isbrush 340 with end piece 350 formed from bristles 10 and 30. The brushmay be used, for example, for the application of nail lacquer.

Plastic substrates useful in the present invention may be made by anyknown manufacturing process, and typically are made using extrusionand/or molding processes. Polymer material is blended with othermaterials having special properties, such as the NIR light-emittingparticles, and additives, if desired, including, for example,performance fillers (e.g., glass, talc, nylon), release agents,colorants, and so forth, in a molten state, in a compounding process. Atypical compounding process is described in U.S. Serial No. 2006/0174436(to Brezler, published, Aug. 10, 2006), the disclosure of which isincorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The compoundingprocess employs conventional plastic mixing processes (using specializedkneaders and twin mixing screws) to achieve the most homogenous state ofthe different raw materials included in the blend. Once mixed, thehomogenous resin is extruded and then cut into pellets that may be usedin, for example, injection molding, extrusion molding, or blow molding(i.e., injection or extrusion). After the plastic parts are molded infinal, they will retain the homogenous quality of the compounded resin,including, in terms of the present invention, a desired quantity of NIRlight-emitting particles distributed throughout the part.

The compounded resin, incorporating the NIR light-emitting material, maybe extruded into sheets, tubes, rods and profiles, for example, solid orhollow profile ribbons, wires, fibers, filaments/bristles, or strands. Atypical process for making filaments is described in U.S. Pat. No.6,311,359 (to Brezler, issued Nov. 6, 2001), which is incorporatedherein by reference in its entirety. The polymer resin pelletscontaining the NIR light emitting material are extruded through aspinneret to form filament strands which are quenched for solidificationin cooling bath. The filaments are then subjected to a series oftreatments which shape the filaments, improve their longitudinalstrength and bend recovery prior to being cut. The filamentsthus-produced may be grouped or twisted into brush forms, woven intofabrics or complex surfaces, or formed into nonwoven materials thatresemble fabrics but are bound together by either chemicals, mechanicalforce, by use of heat, or by using adhesives/solvents. Fibers, bristles,filaments, or other strand materials (for example, nylon and/orpolyester fibers) may be incorporated into brushes of varying kindsusing techniques well known in the art.

The extrusion process can also yield single and multi-layered sheets,films, and bags by a process known as film casting. In this process,multiple sheets may be layered to produce films with excellentproperties, including, but not limited to, barrier, aesthetic, orstrength. Precise heating and cooling as well as mechanical techniquessuch as stretching these films can impart additional strength andmolecular orientation to the product. The film casting process can yieldone or more substrate surfaces bound together that could containmaterials compounded with the NIR light-emitting particles. NIRlight-emitting particles may also be placed on or between layers ofsubstrates, which are held together by, for example, adhesives orsolvents, heat bonding, or mechanical pressing. Some examples of filmmaterials useful in the present invention including, but are not limitedto, PP (Polypropylene), PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride), EVOH (Ethylene VinylAlcohol), PE (Polyethylene—High Density, Low Density or Linear LowDensity types, for example). Non-polymer films which may be formed by nextrusion process may include, but are not limited to, those formed frompaper pulp or aluminum foil. Preferably, the film would permit UV orfluorescent light to be transmitted to the NIR light-emitting materialand would transmit NIR light from the NIR light-emitting material to asurface to be treated.

In the event that it is desired to use a substrate that permitted lightto pass through it, the substrate also could take the form of a lightfilter. If precise permissive or exclusionary properties of light areneeded, certain films, constructed to incorporate NIR light-emittingparticles, could be used. This combination would permit NIR lighttransmission (i.e., NIR light passing filter) to the skin, scalp orhair, and at the same time, absorb other visible wavelengths. It wouldbe appreciated that the film could also be layered over or otherwiseadhered to a further substrate which is not itself impregnated with NIRlight-emitting material.

Although a substrate may be reusable, it is also contemplated that asubstrate in the form of a single use patch or mask, formed from any ofthe materials mentioned hereinabove and capable of being formed into afilm or a sheet, may be used overnight and discarded after use.

Ceramics, certain plastics and/or metals also may be made into molded orformed shapes, useful in forming the substrates of the presentinvention, by means of a sintering process as part of a plasticinjection molding process, a ceramic injection molding (CIM) process, ametal injection molding (MIM) process, or a powder injection molding(PIM) process. Such processes are well known, and generally involvecombining powders of the ceramic, plastics or metal material withbinders, and then fusing the materials together using pressure (such as,hot pressing or hot isostatic pressing) or without pressure (forexample, by slip casting) after being heated to a temperature below themelting point of the material (also known as atomic diffusion). Theproduct is molded, subjected to a binder removal process, and sinteredto eliminate most of the pore volume formerly occupied by the binder. Inaccordance with the present invention, it is contemplated that the NIRlight-emitting material could be mixed with the ceramic, plastic ormetal powder, or could be incorporated into the binders, or could beinfiltrated into the porous areas of a “green” or pre-sinteredcomponent. In the case in which the NIR light-emitting material isencapsulated, it is contemplated that the capsules could be fusedtogether without adverse effect on the material.

Any three-dimensional shape or sheet of substrate of the presentinvention may also be formed from foam or sponge material made from, forexample, Polyurethane (PU), Polyvinyl acetate (PVA), or Polyester (PE).In this process, polymer and other raw materials, including, NIRlight-emitting material, are mixed (e.g., agitated) and heated in a pipeor confined area to cause a polymerization reaction. The polymer mixtureis then combined with carbon dioxide as it is dispensed onto sheet likesurfaces, causing it to expand. The sponge then resembles a large pieceof rising dough which may be cut or ground to desired sizes. An exampleis a cellulose sponge made from cellulose fiber (e.g., wood pulp), otherfibers, such as hemp for strength, and sodium sulphate crystals. Thematerials are combined in vats, poured into a mold and then heated. Theholes in the sponge are created as the sodium sulphate melts and flowsto the bottom of the mold and a final sponge product results.

NIR light-emitting particles may also be combined into coatings, paints,dyes and/or decorations which may then be used to coat the surface ofany three-dimensional shape, sheet, bristle, fiber, film, and so forth,(i.e., solid body) for use as a substrate according to the presentinvention. The coating may be applied to the surface of the solid bodyby any means known in the art. As non-limiting examples, the coating maybe sprayed onto a surface of the solid body, or the solid body could bedipped into the coating.

Any substrate according to the present invention may be adapted for usein any static applicator useful for treating the skin, hair or scalp. By“static applicator” it is meant that the applicator requires nobatteries or motor for its operation. Such substrates, which may beprovided in the form of, for example, a plurality of bristles or fibers,a foam structure, a ceramic structure, a metal form, a film, and soforth, may be incorporated into applicators of various types, including,but not limited to, a toothbrush, a hair brush, or a tool adapted forskin cleansing, for applying a treatment product (e.g., moisturizer,serum, sun protection product) or for applying a makeup product. Asshown in FIG. 13, hairbrush 360 includes bristles 10 and 30 in bristleset 370. Toothbrush 380, shown in FIG. 14, includes tufts 390 formedfrom bristles 10 and 30.

Examples of packaging uses may be squeezable tubes, jars, caps, diptubes, unit dose packages, or bottles, for possible formulationscontained in these packages which can benefit from proximity to levelsof NIR radiation. Clear packaging or packaging with layers that can bepenetrated by ambient light or daylight may be desirable to “recharge”the NIR light-emitting particles over the life of the package. In theevent that a formulation contains the NIR light-emitting particles, theclear packaging or packaging having layers that can be penetrated byambient light or daylight may incorporate a different NIR light-emittingmaterial for a synergistic benefit.

Also contemplated are kits containing products which incorporatesubstrates according to the present invention, such as a cosmeticformulation, a cosmetic patch or applicator, a combination thereof, andso forth, together with a light source for activating the NIRlight-emitting particles. As non-limiting examples, mention may be madeof a kit containing a cosmetic formulation, such as a foundationproduct, an applicator, and a UV light- or fluorescent light-emittingLED light source. The NIR light-emitting material in the foundationand/or the applicator, may be activated by exposing the foundationand/or the applicator, to the UV or fluorescent light prior to or afterapplying the foundation to the skin. Such a light source may also beprovided in a kit with a cosmetic tool, such as a hairbrush, or thelight source may be incorporated into the body of the tool per se.

A further aspect of the present invention concerns a method forstimulating healing or regenerative properties in the skin, scalp and/orhair which comprises applying to the skin, scalp or hair in need of suchtreatment a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a materialwhich emits NIR light, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptablevehicle, and retaining the composition in contact with the skin and/orhair for a time sufficient to stimulate a healing or regenerativeproperty to the skin, scalp and/or hair. The composition is exposed toUV or fluorescent light prior to, during, or after application of thecomposition to the skin, scalp and/or hair. Useful NIR light-emittingmaterials may be those described hereinabove.

A preferred embodiment of this aspect of the invention is a method forstimulating healing or regenerative properties in the skin, scalp and/orhair comprising applying to the skin, scalp and/or hair in need of suchtreatment a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a materialwhich emits NIR light in combination with at least one skin, scalpand/or hair benefit agent, in a cosmetically or dermatologicallyacceptable vehicle, and retaining the composition in contact with theskin, scalp and/or hair for a time sufficient to stimulate a healing orregenerative property to the skin, scalp and/or hair. Healing orregenerative properties have been described hereinabove. Useful skin,scalp and/or hair benefit or therapeutic agents may be those mentionedhereinabove. The methods of the present invention are carried out in theabsence of a NIR light-emitting laser or LED device.

Products for topical application to skin, scalp and/or hair, comprisinga NIR light-emitting material, are adapted to be self-applied by theuser without the need for one or multiple costly visits to aprofessional's office and without the need of an instrument or device todeliver NIR light. Additionally, while the NIR light is applied for alimited length of time in the professional's office, the NIRlight-emitting material useful in the cosmetic compositions and methodsof the present invention continues to emit NIR light and thereforeprolongs the benefits of the skin or hair therapy for hours and evendays longer than is possible as a result of the discrete periods oftherapy applied by the professional. In contrast with laser therapy, forexample, the luminescence emitted from the compositions of the presentinvention may occur throughout the day, and the night, in environmentsin which ambient or direct NIR light is minimal or absent. Moreover, thecombination of the NIR-emitting material with a skin, scalp or hairbenefit agent, e.g., a therapeutic active ingredient, is expected toimprove and prolong the efficacy of treatment as compared with the useof the NIR light-emitting material or the therapeutic active when eitheris used alone. The effect of compositions of the present invention whichcombine a skin, scalp and/or hair therapeutic agent and a persistent NIRlight-emitting material are expected to provide the most efficaciousskin, scalp or hair treatment, since the NIR light-emitting effect couldlast for up to two weeks or longer, such as about 6 weeks, while theproduct remains in contact with the skin, scalp and/or hair.

Cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions of the invention, containingthe NIR light-emitting material, with or without additional scalp, hairor skin benefit or active ingredients, and applied to the skin, scalpand/or hair, such as in the form of a facial cleanser, a shampoo, or aleave-in/leave-on treatment product for the scalp, hair or skin, such asa moisturizer or masque, and so forth, would typically remain in contactwith the skin, scalp and/or hair for a period of time in the range offrom about 1 minute to about 72 hours, including all times in-betweenthose values, such as in the range of from about 1 hour to about 24hours, until removed, such as by washing the skin, scalp and/or thehair. Nail lacquer may remain in contact with the nail for up to about 2weeks, and may, for example, include active ingredients, in addition tothe NIR light-emitting material, which benefit the nail bed and enhancenail growth.

It is also contemplated that compositions of the present invention mayalso include products incorporating NIR light-emitting material whichremain in contact with the body for a period of up to 6 weeks or longer,such as hair dyes of all types, including temporary, semi-permanent andpermanent, and any other hair treatment products, which may bind to, andremain associated with, the hair shaft for an extended period of time,providing continuous therapeutic effects to the hair and/or scalp. Suchproducts may also contain additional active ingredients, as discussedhereinabove. It is further contemplated that the NIR light-emittingmaterial and the active ingredient(s) would complement one another, soas to provide a synergistic benefit to the hair and/or scalp, such asprovided as a result of increased penetration into the hair shaft of theactive ingredient.

The methods of application of compositions of the present invention willdepend on the ultimate intended use of the compositions. Thecompositions may be applied to the skin, hair or scalp on an as-neededbasis, or according to a pre-set schedule. The compositions may beapplied directly to clean skin, for example, before application of anymoisturizer, foundation, make-up, etc. Alternatively, such compositionsmay be applied over moisturizer, and optionally over foundation and/ormake-up. A composition according to the present invention is exposed toUV or fluorescent light, to activate the NIR light-emitting material,for a period of at least about one minute, before, during or afterapplication of the composition to the skin, hair and/or scalp. Theamount applied each time, the area of application, the duration ofapplication, and the frequency of application can vary widely, dependingon the specific need of the user. For example, the cosmetic compositionscan be applied for a period of days to months or even years, and at afrequency ranging from about once or twice per day to about once per 1to 6 weeks.

As one example, the compositions of the invention may be applied on adaily basis prior to sleep as part of a permanent skin care regimen.Specifically, the face is washed, and the composition is applied to skinimmediately prior to bedtime. A composition of the present inventionmay, for example, be formulated as a night cream or a night repair orrejuvenating serum, which can be applied to the face of an individualbefore sleep without rinsing off. As a further example, a composition ofthe present invention may be formulated as an overnight facial or hairmask, which can be applied to the face or to the hair, respectively,before sleep, left thereon overnight, and then rinsed off the nextmorning. Once exposed to UV or fluorescent light to activate the NIRlight-emitting material, the composition will persistently emit NIRlight throughout the night and beyond, providing a continuous beneficialeffect in the absence of any further excitation by UV or fluorescentlight.

A further aspect of the present invention concerns a method forimproving body composition, comprising applying to the skin of at leastone body part containing fatty tissue and in need of such improvement, acosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising a NIRlight-emitting material capable of providing thermal effects on fattytissue, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle, andretaining the composition in contact with the skin of the at least onebody part while exercising the at least one body part for a timesufficient to generate the thermal effects of the NIR light on the fattytissue to thereby increase lipolysis in the fatty tissue of the bodypart so as to boost fat reduction in the body part, wherein thecomposition is exposed to UV or fluorescent light prior to, during, orafter application of the composition to the skin of the at least onebody part.

In a preferred embodiment of this aspect of the invention, a cosmeticand/or dermatological composition comprising a NIR light-emittingmaterial may further contain a cellulite reduction agent. Suchingredients include, but are not limited to, methylxanthines (e.g.,caffeine, aminophylline and theophylline) which are also indicated inpromoting lipolysis; and green tea extracts, e.g., EGCG.

While the present invention has been described hereinabove withreference to specific embodiments, features and aspects, it will berecognized that the invention is not thus limited, but rather extends inutility to other modifications, variations, applications, andembodiments, and accordingly all such other modifications, variations,applications, and embodiments are to be regarded as being within thespirit and scope of the present invention.

I claim:
 1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a NIRlight-emitting material in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptablevehicle.
 2. The cosmetic or dermatological composition of claim 1,wherein the NIR light-emitting material is selected from ceramiccomposites, ceramic-metallo composites, NIRF probes bound to organicluminescent materials, and porphyrin-containing molecules.
 3. Thecosmetic or dermatological composition of claim 2, wherein the NIRlight-emitting material is selected from phosphors of MgSiO₃:Eu²⁺, Dy³⁺,Mn²⁺; Ca_(0.2)Zn_(0.9)Mg_(0.9)Si₂O₆, doped with Eu⁺², Dy⁺³, Mn²⁺;SrAl₂O₄: Eu²⁺, Dy³⁺. Er³⁺; La₃Ga₅Ge₃O₁₄:Cr³⁺, with or without co-dopantssuch as Li⁺, Zn²⁺, Ca²⁺, Mg²⁺ and Dy³⁺; Ln₃Ga₂Ge₄O₁₄:Cr³⁺ (Ln=Y, Gd, Laor Lu); LiGa₅O₈:Cr³⁺; M₃Ga₂Ge₄O₁₄:Cr³⁺ (M=Sr or Ca); La₃Ga₅SiO₁₄:Cr³⁺;La₃Ga_(5.5)Nb^(0.5)O₁₄Cr³⁺; La₃Ga₅GeO₁₄:Cr³⁺; Gd₃Ga₅O12:Cr³⁺;Zn₃Ga₂Ge₂O₁₀:0.5% Cr³⁺, and combinations thereof.
 4. The cosmetic ordermatological composition of claim 2, wherein the NIR light-emittingmaterial comprises a NIRF probe bound to a natural or synthetic polymer,a peptide, a glucose analog or combinations thereof.
 5. The cosmetic ordermatological composition of claim 1, wherein the NIR light-emittingmaterial has the general formulaZn_(x)Ga_(y)Ge_(z)O_((x+(3y/2)+2z)):tCr³⁺, mR where R is a co-dopantselected from a group consisting of alkaline earth ions, lanthanide ionsand Li⁺ ions; x, y and z are integers from 1 to 5; t is 0.01 to 5 mol %;and m is 0 to 5 mol %.
 6. The cosmetic or dermatological composition ofclaim 1, which persistently emits NIR light for a time of time of atleast about 1 hour to about 6 weeks after exposure to UV or fluorescentlight.
 7. The cosmetic or dermatological composition of claim 6, whichpersistently emits NIR light for a time of time of at least about 8hours to about 2 weeks.
 8. The cosmetic or dermatological composition ofclaim 7, wherein the NIR light-emitting material is activated byexposure to UV or fluorescent light for a time of from about 1 minute toabout 10 minutes.
 9. The cosmetic or dermatological composition of claim1, which is anhydrous, aqueous-based or solid.
 10. The cosmetic ordermatological composition of claim 1, which is in the form of asolution, a serum, a gel, a cream, a lotion, a toner, a mousse, a spray,an ointment, an essence, a paste or a solid.
 11. The cosmetic ordermatological composition of claim 1, wherein the NIR light-emittingmaterial has a particle size in the range of from about 100 nanometersto about 100 micrometers.
 12. The cosmetic or dermatological compositionof claim 11, wherein the NIR light-emitting material has a particle sizein the range of from about 500 nanometers to about 20 micrometers. 13.The cosmetic or dermatological composition of claim 1, wherein the NIRlight-emitting material is present in the composition in an amount inthe range of from about 0.001 wt. % to about 75 wt. %.
 14. The cosmeticor dermatological composition of claim 1, which is adapted for at leastone of stimulating the production of collagen, stimulating theproduction of elastin, reducing the size of pores in the skin, reducingthe size and/or depth of wrinkles in the skin, reducing the appearanceof cellulite, enhancing DNA synthesis and repair, reducing inflammationin the skin, evening the skin tone, treating acne, reducing theappearance of acne scarring, stimulating the growth cycle of hairfollicles, reducing dandruff-causing seborrhoeic inflammation, andstimulating fatty tissue reduction.
 15. The cosmetic or dermatologicalcomposition of claim 1, comprising a cosmetic ingredient selected fromthe group consisting of oils, surfactants, film formers, pigments,powders and thickeners.
 16. The cosmetic or dermatological compositionof claim 1, comprising a cosmetic ingredient selected from the groupconsisting of moisturizers, humectants, botanical extracts, sunscreenagents, and DNA repair enzymes.
 17. The cosmetic or dermatologicalcomposition of claim 1, in the form of a foundation, a blush, aneyeshadow a concealer, a lipgloss, a lip balm, a lipstick, a mascara, ashampoo, a hair conditioner, a facial or hair mask, a facial or hairserum, a hair styling lotion or balm, a hair dye, a sun care product, anail lacquer, a depilatory, an exfoliant, or a facial or bodymoisturizer or treatment product.